Notices

FAQ: Accord 6th Gen 98-02 DTCs

Old 09-05-2005, 07:07 PM
  #11  
98CoupeV6
lots and lots of fail
Thread Starter
 
98CoupeV6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
Posts: 23,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by mrherrera
i have the ABS light on and the check engine light?both lights are on,i really appreciated all your help.THANKS
Hm...well your CEL should definitely flash, it doesn't make sense that it wouldn't. Try it again. I'll get those posted for you tomorrow...
Old 09-06-2005, 04:03 PM
  #12  
mrherrera
Junior Member
 
mrherrera's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

i try it a couple of times but only ABS flashes.
Old 09-07-2005, 01:33 PM
  #13  
98CoupeV6
lots and lots of fail
Thread Starter
 
98CoupeV6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
Posts: 23,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by mrherrera
is the other way around,i only have the codes for the ABS,i got the code 81, 13, 53,i read what the code meant,so now i just want to know if i gotta replace the sensor and the cpu unit,the motor is stuck,what is the next step i should take?i want to know what parts i need to replace before i get ripped off by the mechanic.
I knew I was forgetting something!

Here are your troubleshooting solutions:

DTC 81: Central Processing Unit (CPU) Diagnosis, and ROM/RAM Diagnosis

Clear the DTC.
Test-drive the vehicle. Does the ABS indicator come on, and is DTC 81 indicated? YES - Replace the ABS control unit. NO - Intermittent failure; the vehicle is OK at this time.

DTC 13: Wheel Sensor (Open/Short to Body Ground/Short to Power)


Disconnect the ABS control unit connector A (22P).
Start the engine.



Measure the voltage between the appropriate wheel sensor (+) circuit terminal and body ground (see table). Is there 2 V or more ? YES - Repair short to power in the (+) circuit wire between the ABS control unit and the appropriate wheel sensor. NO - Go to step 4.



Check for continuity between the appropriate wheel sensor (+) circuit terminal and body ground (see table). Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 6.
Disconnect the harness 2P connector from the appropriate wheel sensor, then check for continuity between the (+) and (-) terminals of the harness and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to body ground in the (+) or (-) circuit wire between the ABS control unit and the wheel sensor. NO - Replace the wheel sensor.



Check the resistance between the appropriate wheel sensor (+) and (-) circuit terminals (see table). Is the resistance 450 - 2,000 ohms ? YES - Check for loose ABS control unit connectors. If necessary, substitute a known-good ABS control unit, and rechecks NO - Go to step 7.
Disconnect the harness 2P connector from the appropriate wheel sensor, and check the resistance between the (+) and (-) terminals of the wheel sensor. Is the resistance 450 - 2,000 ohms ? YES - Repair open in the (+) or (-) circuit wire, or short between the (+) circuit wire and the (-) circuit wire between the ABS control unit and the wheel sensor. NO - Replace the wheel sensor.

DTC 53: Motor Stuck ON

Check that the pump motor operates with the ignition switch OFF. Does the pump motor operate? YES - Replace the pump motor relay. (Pump motor relay stuck ON.) NO - Go to step 2.
Remove the ABS MTR CHK (7.5 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Remove the fuse, and go to step 3. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).



Measure the voltage between the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box 16P connector terminal No. 5 and body ground. Is there approximately 10 V? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box and the ABS control unit.
Reinstall the ABS MTR CHK (7.5 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box.
Disconnect the pump motor connector.



Measure the voltage between terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there approximately 10 V? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Repair open in the wire between the underhood ABS relay box and the pump motor.



Measure the voltage between the pump motor connector terminal No. 1 and No. 2. Is there approximately 10 V? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between the pump motor and body ground (G303).
Remove the pump motor relay, then connect relay terminals No. 4 and No. 5 together with a jumper wire. Does the pump motor run? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace the pump motor.
Disconnect the ABS control unit connector B (12P).



Check for continuity between terminal B12 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the under-hood ABS relay box and the ABS control unit. NO - If the problem recurs, replace the ABS control unit.
Old 09-07-2005, 04:16 PM
  #14  
mrherrera
Junior Member
 
mrherrera's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I found the problem. A wire going to the left front sensor was cut and as soon as i connected them together and i turn on the car,the ABS light went off.But now my transmission is slipping really bad and i think i have to get it fix,a few people told me it could be a sensor?can this be true?
Old 09-07-2005, 07:40 PM
  #15  
98CoupeV6
lots and lots of fail
Thread Starter
 
98CoupeV6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
Posts: 23,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by mrherrera
I found the problem. A wire going to the left front sensor was cut and as soon as i connected them together and i turn on the car,the ABS light went off.But now my transmission is slipping really bad and i think i have to get it fix,a few people told me it could be a sensor?can this be true?
Glad to hear you got it fixed. That makes sense, the DTCs narrowed it to either that or a bad control unit.

As for the tranny, you're probably screwed on that unless you have a blinking D4 light/CEL indication you have a bad sensor.
Old 09-07-2005, 09:14 PM
  #16  
mrherrera
Junior Member
 
mrherrera's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

My CEL is on,i took it to autozone and they gave me the code P0740,but they didn't know if this was a bad sensor or i need to fix my tranny,can you tell me what this code is suppose to mean?
Old 09-08-2005, 04:45 AM
  #17  
98CoupeV6
lots and lots of fail
Thread Starter
 
98CoupeV6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
Posts: 23,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by mrherrera
My CEL is on,i took it to autozone and they gave me the code P0740,but they didn't know if this was a bad sensor or i need to fix my tranny,can you tell me what this code is suppose to mean?
DTC P0740: Problem in Lock-up Control System

NOTE:


Record all freeze data before you troubleshoot.
Keep replacement solenoid valves on hand:
Torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B

1) Check whether the OBD II scan tool indicates another code. Does the OBD II scan tool indicate another code? YES - Perform the Troubleshooting Flowchart for the indicated Code(s). Recheck for code P0740 after troubleshooting. NO - Go to step 2. NOTE: Do not continue with this troubleshooting until the causes of any other DTCs have been corrected.
2) Measure the line pressure. Is the line pressure within the service limit? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Repair the hydraulic system as necessary.
3) Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid valve/ shift solenoid valve A.
4) Replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B.
5) Turn the ignition switch OFF and reset the PCM memory by removing the BACK UP fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box for more than 10 seconds .
5) Using the scan tool, check to be sure that the engine coolant temperature is in 176°F (80°C) and above .
6) Drive the vehicle at 55 mph (88 km/h) constantly formore than one minute .
7) Recheck for code P0740. Does the OBD II scan tool indicate code P0740? YES - Replace the transmission and torque converter. NO - The system is OK at this time.

Doesn't look good :happysad: Hopefully #3 and 4 fix it.
Old 09-08-2005, 06:56 PM
  #18  
mrherrera
Junior Member
 
mrherrera's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

do you have a picture of #3 and #4,to help me understand a little better.THANKS alot
The following users liked this post:
sarabean2005 (10-30-2019)
Old 09-09-2005, 05:32 AM
  #19  
98CoupeV6
lots and lots of fail
Thread Starter
 
98CoupeV6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
Posts: 23,004
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by mrherrera
do you have a picture of #3 and #4,to help me understand a little better.THANKS alot
Of course, I should have done it to begin with.

Replacement

NOTE: Torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A assembly must be removed/replaced as an assembly.

V6:


I4:




1) Remove the bolts securing the ignition coil bracket ('98-99 models), then remove the harness cover from the transmission hanger.
2) Remove the mounting bolts and torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A.
3) Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A, and install a new torque converter clutch solenoid valve/shift solenoid valve A with a new filter/gasket (B).
4) Install the harness cover on the transmission hanger, and install the ignition coil bracket bolts ('98-99 models).
5) Install the male terminal connector (C) of the solenoid connector on the harness cover.
6) Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then reconnect the connector securely.

2nd Clutch Pres Switch V6:



3rd Clutch Pres Switch V6:



3rd Clutch Pres Switch I4:

Old 09-13-2005, 05:54 PM
  #20  
fatalglitch
Registered User
 
fatalglitch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Shift Solenoid

Evening....

Took my car to Honda today because it's been shifting relatively rough lately. They said that it could be the transmission, but they would change out the "Shift Solenoid" on the transmission before they would warranty the replacement of the transmission.

Only problem is, they want over $600 for that solenoid. Can you give me some pictures/info about replacing that solenoid, and possibly where to find the solenoid for purchase?

Thanks,
Tom Callahan


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:33 AM.