Help me choose a HOnda civic...
UHmm, i see what you mean. I will be getting and hopefully new header and exhaust. I'm bit concern about the engine. I live in Ontario and don't know anyone here much about buiding engine and tuning it. That why I'm here. There are other forum out there too but not eveyone willing to give hands. I can keep the oem engine a swap the head of it. The problem's that i don't have tools to much on building the engine head. I was thinking to just get another engine instead building it from the stratch. I don't mind doing that but like i said i don't have tools how-to do it.
I not sure if I'm going to add intake because it doesn't do much of HP but probably make the engine roar aggressive. I'm not planning to do turbo as yet because i heard most of it cannot pass emission test. Another problem might be the motor. A good turbo can bad motor don't mix. I might have to leak down to see if can my motor can handle it.
First thing i want to do is an engine swap. I want the engine to performance good and have a Hp between 200 to 250. Not more than that because i don't think it will be using all that, plus it would be too much spending. Curious to know why some peoples say not to buy from JDM? What does this mean? Need more info...
I not sure if I'm going to add intake because it doesn't do much of HP but probably make the engine roar aggressive. I'm not planning to do turbo as yet because i heard most of it cannot pass emission test. Another problem might be the motor. A good turbo can bad motor don't mix. I might have to leak down to see if can my motor can handle it.
First thing i want to do is an engine swap. I want the engine to performance good and have a Hp between 200 to 250. Not more than that because i don't think it will be using all that, plus it would be too much spending. Curious to know why some peoples say not to buy from JDM? What does this mean? Need more info...
the build I posted about would cost you roughly 600 bucks plus labor. Id guess about 300 bucks to have a cylinder head cleaned up and shaved and the valvework done to freshen it up. maybe 150 bucks for a shop to install pistons and hone the cylinders and check clearances for the bearings.
also, while 130whp isnt a whole lot, thats approx a 50whp GAIN over the stock 1.5's power. they usually make about 80whp. not bad
Well i'm not worry anything about rust because i can do body work. I thinking to spend around $1800 for a use car to do work and project. Is that too much or less? It will use for driving but no daily use. Is there anyone here from Ontario, Canada know about engine swapping? Does anyone here brought engine from JDM.. Here's the link http://www.torontojdm.com/lite/cart.php
ANyone have any experience from buying from this seller? Please help...Need info...
ANyone have any experience from buying from this seller? Please help...Need info...
You mean on this board? I can speak French a little but not clearly as in English because i don't have a good accent. I do all my research, writing, reading, and speaking in English. I know it isn't prefect but atleast most peoples understood. Sorry about my spelling and writing because i type fast sometime and mis words around..
Does anyone here have photo on cleaning, removing, building the engine head or block. I would to love build an engine from the sratch, but it will be more difficult for noob like me since i don't have a solid foundation on what can work and fix right to make it run. I know they are probably more experience engine builder in the U.s than Canada, but i could be wrong.
Just wondering what's the different between the B16, b18, d16, k20, and so on. I not too sure about those. Anyone have any knowleges or have experience about those. Sorry about the long writing...
You mean on this board? I can speak French a little but not clearly as in English because i don't have a good accent. I do all my research, writing, reading, and speaking in English. I know it isn't prefect but atleast most peoples understood. Sorry about my spelling and writing because i type fast sometime and mis words around..
Does anyone here have photo on cleaning, removing, building the engine head or block. I would to love build an engine from the sratch, but it will be more difficult for noob like me since i don't have a solid foundation on what can work and fix right to make it run. I know they are probably more experience engine builder in the U.s than Canada, but i could be wrong.
Just wondering what's the different between the B16, b18, d16, k20, and so on. I not too sure about those. Anyone have any knowleges or have experience about those. Sorry about the long writing...
Does anyone here have photo on cleaning, removing, building the engine head or block. I would to love build an engine from the sratch, but it will be more difficult for noob like me since i don't have a solid foundation on what can work and fix right to make it run. I know they are probably more experience engine builder in the U.s than Canada, but i could be wrong.
Just wondering what's the different between the B16, b18, d16, k20, and so on. I not too sure about those. Anyone have any knowleges or have experience about those. Sorry about the long writing...
B18= 1.8 liter of above, usually limited to around 6-7k revs. newer B16 can take 9.5k all day
D16= 1.6 liter single cam, lots of versions. stay away from d16y"x" (fill in number) blocks, they have severe oil flow problems. and no, a ported and shimmed oil pump wont save it
K20= hondas beginning of a new motor family. 2.0 liter, and ready to destroy the road. super reliable and very responsive to work on it. stock, the slowest one is rated at 160, can be built all motor to 350 estrimated crank. thats a lot of room. several 400hp turbo builds on stock internals. honda's new tank motor
I dont know much about the H and older F series. the newer F series is found in the s2000
The first thing I would do is get a repair manual and some tools. You dont need much to start with. Id get some screwdrivers, socket & ratchet set.
The manual will answer alot of the questions you have and how it is done. Once you have full understanding of how it all works you'll find information much easier. Just search on this forum theres millions of "How do I make car fast?" threads.
The manual will answer alot of the questions you have and how it is done. Once you have full understanding of how it all works you'll find information much easier. Just search on this forum theres millions of "How do I make car fast?" threads.
Right now I'm newbie when it come on building and swapping engine. Should swap with another engine or would be better to stick with the Oem engine and just clean the block and head? I was thinking to get b16 but not sure which one. I have 352 tools of sockets, rachets, screws, and torque wrench. That include 3/8 drills, impact wrench, and so on. I don't have an air compressor as yet. Still loooking and hoping to buy a hoist. The main goal right now's to get the engine running smooth and fast but not very fast at 300 HP.
know what? strive for a cheap honda with the 1.5 in it. they go cheap cuz they are generally the slowest available. throw a d16y8 head, switch out the exhaust springs for another intake set, get some aftermarket rods, ZC dome pistons, and you have 12:1 with a little bit of head shaving. the Y8 head has the best quench pad and makes the most efficient power of all the honda single cams. that and combatted with the 1.5's awesome RTSR you have over 130 WHEEL hp and over 10k rpm goodness.
If I were you, Kenny, I'd look for a 92-95 EX. It's the only 4-door civic (pre 2001) that comes with rear disc brakes and a rear sway bar. It has an OBD1 d16z6 which is very boost-friendly. Or if you're set on swapping, well, it's a honda... the options are limitless.
d16z6 = 92-95 Si, Ex 125hp single cam
d16y8 = 96-00 Ex pretty much the newer version of the z6
d15b = JDM version of the same motor. Slightly smaller displacement, but same power output.
anything else that starts with a "d" isn't worth your time.
B16A = dual cam vtec 1.6 liter. Many variations from roughly '89 to 2000
B16B = high-compression tuned version of the same motor. Very pricey.
B17A = 2nd gen integra GSR motor. Just a slightly stroked version of the B16A. Very rare.
B18A = 2nd gen integra RS/LS/GS dual cam non-vtec
B18B = newer version of the same motor
B18C = Dual cam vtec. Slightly shorter stroke than the a/b, higher redline, good power
B18C5 = aka B18CR integra type-r motor. Tuned version of the B18C
b20b = 2.0 dual cam no-vtec from a honda CRV. Comes in two varieties: 96-98 is 8.8:1 compression and 99-00 is 9.6:1 compression. These motors are CHEAP!
H22A = 2.2 vtec dual cam prelude motor Lots of power for the money (up to 220 stock hp depending on which one you get), but a more complicated swap to get it in.
The K-series get a little fuzzy, but the basic rundown is:
k20? = 7th gen Civic Si and RSX (non-S). It's still dual cam i-vtec, but it kinda sucks
k20? = RSX-S dual cam i-vtec 200hp, generally comes with a 6-speed trans
k24? = CRV, accord, element
k24? = TSX motor, if you're getting a k24, this is the one you want.
All K-series are pretty expensive.
I will take a note on those engine you mention there. I have seen alots of peoples with b16 engine. Does this mean these engine are underrated, good performance, and cheaper or expensive? I will be buying a civic soon and it must be a between from 95 to 99 nothing older or newer. Just project stuff. I'm thinking wealther to buy a another engine or just swap head, block, pistons, and so on. Will change these parts affect the mileage or no? I'm newbie with the engine so what do all think i should do.
You said the b20b are cheap but how cheap? Is there anything else i need to know while swapping and engine? I went through this site but nothing much on swapping engine. There's much shop around me that know about building engine. = /
You said the b20b are cheap but how cheap? Is there anything else i need to know while swapping and engine? I went through this site but nothing much on swapping engine. There's much shop around me that know about building engine. = /
stay away from d16Y<x> blocks. they suck for proper oiling and 5/10 spin the #4 bearing somewhere down the road if you dont catch it in time
while the B20 engine is cheap, it is not a performance engine. people rebuild them for power and put a B16 head on there for topend, but thats extra money and reuires a tune to even run correctly.
I think when you say 95-99 you mean 96-00 civic. its the 6th generation of the civic. a 95 civic looks much different then a 96.
the nice thing about any 92-00 civic is that a B series motor drops right in, using the same mounts. change teh harness, change teh ECU, and you have a fully functional dual cam motor. of course you will need to change teh axles as well.
to be quite honest, motor performance should be the last thing you do. start with suspension, get that ride quality and the ride height to what you think is comfortable and is good on a track. stock brakes are perfectly fine, just grab some performance brake pads.
when you do get around to teh motor, it will be much easier and cheaper to put a small turbo on it. the D series motos all come with 110whp or less, and all are capable of being reliable on 200whp or less if the tune is done well. a turbo will enable you to cruise on the highway with the same gasmileage, but have that extra power when you feel like a teenager ha ha
while the B20 engine is cheap, it is not a performance engine. people rebuild them for power and put a B16 head on there for topend, but thats extra money and reuires a tune to even run correctly.
I think when you say 95-99 you mean 96-00 civic. its the 6th generation of the civic. a 95 civic looks much different then a 96.
the nice thing about any 92-00 civic is that a B series motor drops right in, using the same mounts. change teh harness, change teh ECU, and you have a fully functional dual cam motor. of course you will need to change teh axles as well.
to be quite honest, motor performance should be the last thing you do. start with suspension, get that ride quality and the ride height to what you think is comfortable and is good on a track. stock brakes are perfectly fine, just grab some performance brake pads.
when you do get around to teh motor, it will be much easier and cheaper to put a small turbo on it. the D series motos all come with 110whp or less, and all are capable of being reliable on 200whp or less if the tune is done well. a turbo will enable you to cruise on the highway with the same gasmileage, but have that extra power when you feel like a teenager ha ha


