for a 95 civic turning the rotors is not worth it because you can buy some blank rotors from autzone for like 10 dollars more brand new instead of using your old original ones...theres no need for drilled and slotted high performance unless you want to fork out some cash. I had semi metallic pads on my old civic and lasted for a couple of years and on top of that i had drilled and slotted rotors and those pads held up good but also some good brembo blanks would be pretty good

i had mine turned and then within a week they were squealing...its trash to turn them, just buy new ones

 

Even for autocrossing I use blanks over slotted or drilled rotors. As you want MORE surface area not less for braking. Plus blanks are cheaper than slotted or drilled anyways.
For my autocross only car which I won 39 out of 40 autocrosses I was using Brembo blanks and AEM ceramic pads. My 91 Civic Si was a momentum car, no need to slow down

 

Thanks everyone for all the great answers. I got the cross-drilled ones (Power Stop) a few years ago. I thought they would look cool and might avoid warping when I haul down from warp speed :noes:. Civics with a D15B7 and auto don't go THAT fast, depending on my driving habitz (and unless I spend big $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ on a bottle and a turbo!) :irock:hreally: Just get me in trouble and make me look all riced out! :loco:

The rotors are on their 2nd set of pads now (EBC green), the first set were Axxis Ultimates. The Axxis really did dust bad, as I recall. EBC's have had a good bite. The rotors are fairly worn now. The original holes had chamfers (beveling) on them to prevent cracks (never got any), the chamfers are now worn away, gone. There is a bit of a ridge on the O.D. My wear indicator on one side just began squeaking a little a few weeks ago, so it's time now.

Got the Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads coming from TireRack, along with some General Altimax HP's to freshen up the fronts. Love them!

Now all I need to find is somebody who won't screw me to shoot a decent base + clearcoat paint job for less than the current value of the car (oh wait:eh:, now I have to factor in all these upgrades). Got some wear through on the roof and hood, and the left front 1/4 panel has athletes' paint disease. Last guy I talked to was blowing smoke at me, wanted $1100. I'll shop around some more, sounds high to me. I'm not talking candy paint or custom, just DA it, mask it, prime a few areas and shoot a quality base & clear on it. I'll pull all of the lights and mirrors first, and pre-mask certain areas to save some time for the guy, maybe get a break for prepping stuff for them.

 

Yeah, I mic'd a new rotor and there's only about .020" or so from NEW until they're reject, I never had Honda rotors turned, save time & $$, replace 'em.

 

glad you got your brakes figured out. I can't really offer any help with the body work... Unless you're in the biz or know someone who is, you're probably going to end up spending a few grand on a decent paint job.

 

Ouch

 

The difference in swept area between a blank and drilled rotor is small, and they can run cooler. If you can lock up your wheels, I don't see why you'd need that extra 3% in swept area.

 

When competing every little bit helps. Plus with some track organizations they will not allow you to run drill rotors since they crack.

 

Well, depending on the situation, it might not help. For example, if your brakes can produce 1000 lb of force, but the max friction force of the tire is 900 lb, a 3% reduction in area won't really matter. Plus, the coefficient of friction doesn't drop as quickly at higher temperatures with drilled rotors, so a blank rotor could drop below the 900 lb threshold at a lower temperature than a drilled rotor. It is an oversimplified example, but you get the idea.

Yeah, in that case, you don't have much of a choice.

 

You're not going to get enough heat into your brakes in a 60 second autocross run to warrant any additional cooling. Another consideration is that cooler doesn't always mean better when it comes to braking. Different pads operate best at different temperatures, and there are plenty of pads out there (particularly performance pads), that work better hot than cold.