is the 1997 and 2000 civic?

 

they are both 6th gens...but have different front ends.

 

There is considerable amount of modification becuase an H (and F) series trannies don't use linkage, they use 2 cables. Basically one cable is for moving forward and backwards, the other is for left and right motion. Honda's B and D series are rare using actual rod style linkage as cables are much more common (the new K series engines use cables I believe as well). They are much easier to package into the car but don't give quite as strong "feel" to the shifter. I believe most swap kits offer a mounting plate (probably at addition cost, but I don't know for sure) that allows you to mostly bolt the cables into place (there will probably still be some cutting and manipulation to make room for them).

Couldn't tell you on the downpipe, that type of stuff is pretty easy for a muffler shop to fix.

I would say not to if your planning to go turbo, consider it if your staying N/A. For a turbo setup, your much better off investing that money in strenghtening the bottom end, specifically the N/A designed and weak for FI pistons, rods and cylinder walls. Forged units and replacement sleeves will give you a much stronger engine. A stroked engine would probably make a little more power due to the increase in displacement but with a turbo, more power is basically a turn of a boost controller dial up and good fuel tuning. For N/A engine, it might be considered but if your on a limited budget, an aggressive set of cams and a good valve job will probably net a lot more gains. I would think of a stroker kit as more of a next level modification after all the basics have been done (just my opinion though).

As for LS vs VTEC. A turbo'd VTEC engine will make more power on the same boost. That being the higher lift cams and higher compression. The LS will be about $1000-$1500 cheaper, saving a considerable amount to invest into the turbo. Some people argue that the longer gearing LS tranny is also better, but for low boost setups, the more aggerssively geared VTEC trannies will make you faster. More aggressive gearing = faster accelleration, traction limiting. There are also issues with the extra overlap (the time both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time) in a VTEC engine hurting power. I've heard the issues isn't boost escaping into the exhuast, but actually the excess pressure between the exhuast valve and turbo can actually push back into the intake manifold heating and contaminating the incoming air/fuel mix. These are all issues you need to be aware of when considering your choice of base engines.

As for 300 whp, that depends entirely on what turbo setup you have and what kind of tuning you have done. That's going to be around 350 crank hp, which is over twice the stock output, so your probably not going to do that on a stock bottom end. 220-230 at the wheels isn't unreasonable for a good turbo setup and will probably get you close to if not into the 12's. Seeya.

 

thanks a lot andy. great info. one more question. in terms of turbos, what is the difference in lag between a t3 and a t4? i know that they have the t3/t4 hybrid to have less lag like a t3 and more boost like a t4 but how much of a difference is it? aka at what rpm do they start to gain positive pressure and at what rpm are they fully spooled up? thanks again

 

I really can't say for sure, I haven't done much tinkering with turbo's. A straight T3 should be spooled by around 3000-3500 rpm, I'd assume the T3/T4 be a few hundred after that and the T4 coming in a few after that. It depends on turbo manifold design, compression of the engine and a few other factors. As far as I know, a T3 and T3/T4 hybrid are both very street friendly turbo and can usually be turned up to provide enough boost for just about any street car. Seeya.

 

get a t3/t04. good for high boost. i think the t3/t04 starts spool at 3300rpm or so. even if you have lag of the line, with a bigger turbo it will take you all the way to your power band with power it you get a smaller turbo ie, T25, that spools up at around 2800 rpm, but probably wont last until redline.

 

im planning to lower my 2000 ex civic 2 dr just for looks no performance reasons. So i was looking into ground control adjustable coilovers. First of all what is the max drop i can do to my car in order to not have to worry about camber kit. Will i also need new shocks and struts? When people talk about struts does that include strut bars? If not what's the difference?

 

Max drop I would suggest is 1.5-2" for good tire wear. But on stock shocks you are going to regret the ride. OEM shocks were not meant to handle higher increased spring rates of most aftermarket springs. Struts are another form of shocks.

I suggest to get new aftermarket shocks when you upgrade your springs to lowering springs or coilovers.

 

Eibach Sport Line Spring Kit or Ground Control Coilovers?!?

The Springs cost about 100$ less, but i can not adj them, the drop is 1.6 and 1.6, But Ground control, you can go lower or higher if needed. How many of you with GC, adj them? Also, Just out of what you guys know, which work better with KYB/AGX.

 

I'm getting: ITR rear sway, endlinks, bushings, brackets, GSR rear LCA.

What are my risks of tearing the subframe if I don't get the Beaks SRK?