how to adjust valve's..
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The flathead (adjuster) screws will not necessarily be parallell. As a matter of fact, it is extraordinarily unlikely.
The numbers listed are a safe range (although very small) for your valves' clearances to fall within. If your valves are too loose (i.e. you set them to the highest number, therefore the largest gap ) you will experience some valve "float"; your engine will be noisy ("wet", clicky) and perform poorly at higher RPMs. If your valves are tight (Example d15b7: 0.007" intake, 0.009" exhaust) your engine will sound smooth and perform better at higher RPMs.
The numbers listed are a safe range (although very small) for your valves' clearances to fall within. If your valves are too loose (i.e. you set them to the highest number, therefore the largest gap ) you will experience some valve "float"; your engine will be noisy ("wet", clicky) and perform poorly at higher RPMs. If your valves are tight (Example d15b7: 0.007" intake, 0.009" exhaust) your engine will sound smooth and perform better at higher RPMs.
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should the flatehead part on top.. lets say your workin on number one.. should both of those valves be the same.. by that i mean the flathead part???? or all of them gonna be diffrent??
oh an curious if you know, but why do they give you two diffrent number's?? is there a difference??
oh an curious if you know, but why do they give you two diffrent number's?? is there a difference??
You need to go an re-do the job.
The slots on the screwheads are going to be in different places--even if you only look the valves on one cylinder--so you need to set the lash on each individual valve.
Keep track of the firing order and watch the rocker arms as you turn the crankshaft over. On the cylinder you are about to adjust, all the rockers should be at the top of their travel (the screw/nut will be at their highest point). Before you grab your 10mm, wiggle all the rockers for that valve. If they don't click, double check that you're working on the right cylinder.
Turn the screw until it just contacts the feeler gage and make sure you can slide (not drag) the feeler around a bit (actually, I do it 3 or 4 times and make sure the screw stops at the same place). Then hold the screwdriver in position and tighten the nut. Finally, verify you used the correct feeler gage.
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this should help i hope...
I also have the D15B7 block but i put on a D16z6 head and i do know that when i do a valve job i do it in the firing order 1,3,4,2 and not 1,2,3,4. and if im not mistaken after doing cylinder 1 you turn the crankshaft 180 degrees which means your cam shaft moves 90 degrees. Then do number 3 cylinder and turn the crankshaft 180degrees (means the camshaft moves 90degrees) then your ready for #4 cylinder and do them same so you can finally finish with the #2 cylinder. It would then be smart to put the #1 back at TDC and recheck your work following same formula. I also recommend using the .007 -.009 specs that were suggested for that engine. Hope this helps you
BS Racing
BS Racing
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I also have the D15B7 block but i put on a D16z6 head and i do know that when i do a valve job i do it in the firing order 1,3,4,2 and not 1,2,3,4. and if im not mistaken after doing cylinder 1 you turn the crankshaft 180 degrees which means your cam shaft moves 90 degrees. Then do number 3 cylinder and turn the crankshaft 180degrees (means the camshaft moves 90degrees) then your ready for #4 cylinder and do them same so you can finally finish with the #2 cylinder. It would then be smart to put the #1 back at TDC and recheck your work following same formula. I also recommend using the .007 -.009 specs that were suggested for that engine. Hope this helps you
BS Racing
BS Racing
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Your Powder Coater
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if you've done the job & it's still tapping.. you didn't set the clearances tight enough. Get a better grasp of the feeler gauge & try again.
Don't go out beating on the car if it's taping, not smart!
Don't go out beating on the car if it's taping, not smart!