Yea, that is what you can do. On a DOHC, you just take off the valve cover and the middle timing belt cover and turn the crank until the cams line up with each other in the shown positions. For SOHC you can just look at the directions for DOHC, but instead just watch the cam gear turn to the right spot and look at the corresponding cylinder and make sure the cam lobe is fully off of the rocker arm, then ur good to go.

 

i do kinda have lose of power with my gsr its not running the full capacity.. it could be stronger.. it run's right it's just that i know that gsr's are strong... my vtec isnt really pulling either..

 

I know how you feel, my B16 is like that sometimes, but I think I found out its becaust of the alternator. I mean sometimes I will STOMP my friends car, and then sometimes I can't catch up to him. BUt I also found out that my rotor screw came loose and tore up my whole cap and bent all the metal contacts at a 90 degree angle, not to mention it tore up my rotor. My alternator was charging and then not charging and charging and not charging, so it wouldn't have enough power to push the ignition far enough. I think that was the only problem. We will see tho, I got it rebuilt and am picking it up today. Also, don't underestimate the power of a good engine flush, oil change, and tune up.
Another thing, if you are lucky like me to have access to 110 octane race gas (I get it at m local Sunoco) throw about a gallon or gallon and a half in there, and it will burn hotter thus breaking up some of the crap in your motor.
I did it on my friends BMW and another friends 240, and they used to lag a little and now they dont have the lag anymore.
Well I will see how it runs when i get the alternator back now.

 

I've Always wanted one of these, i just can't bring my self to spend the cash on it when i can do the same thing with my wrench & screw driver & spend the money on something else...

 

Same here. It takes me 15 minutes to do a valve lash adjustment with just a wrench and screwdriver, so spending $50 to do it a little faster is not worth it to me.

 

I work on peoples cars all day, so its worth it to me. LOL

 

i cant find those crazy wrenchs for it wheres the best place to go?? i already went to schucks.. do you guys just do it with a normal wrench??

is it ok to us .006 on intake an .008 on exhaust??

 

I use a 10mm socket wrench and flathead.

Those clearances are fine.

 

should the flatehead part on top.. lets say your workin on number one.. should both of those valves be the same.. by that i mean the flathead part???? or all of them gonna be diffrent??

oh an curious if you know, but why do they give you two diffrent number's?? is there a difference??

 

The flathead (adjuster) screws will not necessarily be parallell. As a matter of fact, it is extraordinarily unlikely.

The numbers listed are a safe range (although very small) for your valves' clearances to fall within. If your valves are too loose (i.e. you set them to the highest number, therefore the largest gap ) you will experience some valve "float"; your engine will be noisy ("wet", clicky) and perform poorly at higher RPMs. If your valves are tight (Example d15b7: 0.007" intake, 0.009" exhaust) your engine will sound smooth and perform better at higher RPMs.