d series turbo
I'm made of meat!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
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From: Richmond, VA
Nobody's mentioned compression ratios yet. Lower the compression, and your engine can handle more boost, but it will make less hp until your turbo spools.
If you're running 9:1 compression, at 19 PSI... high-octane pump gas will start to knock unless you have a REALLY efficient intercooler. Detonation will destroy a heavily boosted D-series almost instantaneously. A factory D-series rod will fold over like a wet noodle at a little more than half that much, so just treat that as an interesting fact. Running lean can cause detonation at any boost level, so your fuel trims need to be rock-solid 14.7:1 throught the whole power band at WOT if you're going to push it over 6-8 PSI on stock internals.
If you're running 9:1 compression, at 19 PSI... high-octane pump gas will start to knock unless you have a REALLY efficient intercooler. Detonation will destroy a heavily boosted D-series almost instantaneously. A factory D-series rod will fold over like a wet noodle at a little more than half that much, so just treat that as an interesting fact. Running lean can cause detonation at any boost level, so your fuel trims need to be rock-solid 14.7:1 throught the whole power band at WOT if you're going to push it over 6-8 PSI on stock internals.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 672
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Originally Posted by Jafro
Nobody's mentioned compression ratios yet. Lower the compression, and your engine can handle more boost, but it will make less hp until your turbo spools.
If you're running 9:1 compression, at 19 PSI... high-octane pump gas will start to knock unless you have a REALLY efficient intercooler. Detonation will destroy a heavily boosted D-series almost instantaneously. A factory D-series rod will fold over like a wet noodle at a little more than half that much, so just treat that as an interesting fact. Running lean can cause detonation at any boost level, so your fuel trims need to be rock-solid 14.7:1 throught the whole power band at WOT if you're going to push it over 6-8 PSI on stock internals.
If you're running 9:1 compression, at 19 PSI... high-octane pump gas will start to knock unless you have a REALLY efficient intercooler. Detonation will destroy a heavily boosted D-series almost instantaneously. A factory D-series rod will fold over like a wet noodle at a little more than half that much, so just treat that as an interesting fact. Running lean can cause detonation at any boost level, so your fuel trims need to be rock-solid 14.7:1 throught the whole power band at WOT if you're going to push it over 6-8 PSI on stock internals.
And it will make less hp per psi of boost. It's a stock motor so it can only handle so much power. If you want to drop the compression from 9.6:1 to 9:1 and run 2psi more, then so be it.....the final result is still the same, your limited by the amount of power being produced. Just because he can run more boost with a lower compression doesn't mean he's going to be making anymore power.....
Adding a thicker headgasket is like jogging around the block to get to your neighbors house....You can do the direct route and hop the fence, or you can spend more time and effort running around the block, then jumping the fence on the other side of his house... either way your still at his house....
Now if we're talking about a fully built car then that could be a different story....
Point being, his motor can only handle so much power before it snaps....stock compression high compression or low compression it don't matter....he still can only make so much power.
The only time I would consider dropping the compression on a street car is if your going for high hp on pump gas. And by high hp I mean high hp for the street such as 400+whp.....You can only make so much power with high compression and pump gas.......thus the need for a lower compression so you can still run pump gas....
HMT b7
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 117
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From: Buffalo, NY
you can hit 220 to the wheels on stock internals. if you are doing all that work...i.e. forged internals....shoot for at least 300whp. although...be careful with the Y8...and DEFINETLY change the oil pump. they are notorious for spun bearings under boost. the t3 super 60 is a good turbo for your application. a dsm 14b would be preety good and a little faster spooling but probably get you to 200-210. either way youll be impressed i think. have fun.
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 43
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the truth of all this is its not all about internals yea ur friend who has been mashing the #$%^ out of is 300 hp y8 turbo is lucky thats it u shouldnt run more then 7-8 pounds and have no problems but that block has potential for much more on all stock internals with a resleeve. that should be the first thing u ever do to that motor if ur gunna seriously be looking to make over 200hp
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: topton,pa
ok heres another question, after boosted, could i run an fmu until getting my hands on a chipped ecu? im doing a lot of research on tuning with uberdata and wanted to try and do it myself. i didnt want my car to have a lot of down time so i thought that an fmu would let me drive it with less worries.
and i know they will prevent the engine from leaning out but im guessing they do nothing with the timing. will that be just as much danger to the engine as leaning out?
and i know they will prevent the engine from leaning out but im guessing they do nothing with the timing. will that be just as much danger to the engine as leaning out?
