So from what I got it's, 21: VTEC Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve.

Is that the yellow/green wire? Any sugestions.


EDIT~ I'm SOOOOO suprised I'm not throwing a 23.

 

Here are the procedures out of my 94 Integra manual. Same principle, different car.

1. Do the ECM reset procedure.
2. Start the engine
3. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature
4. Do the road test
5. Is MIL on and does it indicate code 21?
NO: Intermittent failure. Check for loose and poor connections at VTEC solenoid valve and ECM.
YES: Continue on.
6. Turn ignition switch off.
7. Disconnect the 1P connector from the VTEC solenoid valve and check for continuity between 1P connector terminal and body ground.
8. Is there 14-30 ohms?
NO: Replace VTEC solenoid valve
YES: Continue on.
9. Connect test harness.
10. Check for continuity between 1P terminal and A4 terminal. Is there continuity?
NO: Repair open in the GRN/YEL wire between ECM (A4) and VTEC solenoid valve connector
YES: Continue on.
11. Check for continuity between 1P connector terminal (harness side) and body ground. Is there continuity?
YES: Repair short in the GRN/YEL wire between ECM (A4) and VTEC solenoid valve connector.
NO: Substitute a known good ECM and recheck. If symptom goes away, replace the original ECM.

Those wire colors and terminals are probably different but you have the basic idea of troubleshooting how a tech would do it.

I fear that code 23. I cracked my knock sensor and that code came up. New knock sensor: $180 at the dealer. :sad:

 

ECM=ECU right? What's MIL?

What's the road test. Just driving it around?

 

MIL (Malfunction indicator lamp)=CEL
ECM (Engine Control Module)=ECU

Road test is as follows:

Accelerate in 1st gear to an engine speed of over 6000 rpm. Hold that engine speed for at least two seconds. If the MIL (CEL) doesn't come on during the first road test, repeat this test two more times.

 

Alright thanks a lot man. I'll check back in tomorrow after I give it a shot.

 

Use a continuity tester and be sure tha the wire from your vtec solenoid is plugged into the right pin on the ECU. :yes:

 

A4 right? And just to be sure, I disconnect the negative terminal and hold the break till the electronics shut off?

 

I don't think it is the same terminal for your car. The ECU that the service manual is a P72, so it may be (and probably is) a completely different wire. I would try to find a pinout that shows you which is the right one for the ECU that you are running.


What are you trying to accomplish with the disconnection of the negative terminal and holding of the brakes?

 

I'm wondering the same thing... :thinking:

 

Uh, something I read on here by someone. So how do you reset the ECU? I borrowed my friends continuity tester, some wire, and male female connectors. I'm ready to get goin, I just need to know how to reset it.