Pull the negative terminal of the battery for 10 seconds and that should do the trick.

 

Yea, that's what I meant by pull the neg terminal. Then I saw on here someone said to hold the brake till it drains the ECU or something. Ok I'mma get crackin! Thanks again shmoo.

 

How to: http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/02.php

 

Ok, I tested everything. Seems there's a short in the wire. Don't tell anyone...but all I did to connect them was twist the wires together and electrical taped em. I'll do a better job. Also, It's throwing code 10.

 

Ghetto, but at least you found the problem and it should hold up. What is code 10?

 

Intake Air Temp. I think it has to do with the little hose that goes on the oil catch can. I never found a place for it so I just left it.

 

I don't think the PCV valve has anything to do with that. I will give you another troubleshooting writeup when I get home from work today.

 

dude, you're seriously doing some halfass work there. :a:

The IAT sensor is in the front of the intake. It is held on by 2 screws and has 2 wires going into it. It is usually on a runner or on the plenum (sp).



You can see it on my manifold just behind the FP gauge. It has a white plug on it, but the sensor itself is black. I've seen them both colors.

 

Mines hooked up. I'll test it later. And those two things are the only halfassness on the swap. That's why it took me like 2 weeks to do. I tripple checked EVERYTHING. The car started right up no problems or codes. Well I'm atleast happy with my work.

 

I would get that VTEC solenoid valve wire soldered and heat shrinked as soon as you can to prevent any other problems.