so would it work\ be good if he used the ls crank, cause he didnt say he was changing it when i asked. all he said was gsr pistons and rods

 

what block? Off the top of my head, I'm not sure whether gsr rods/pistons will work with and LS crank or not. The GSR rods are longer, but I don't know if they're long enough to put the piston above the deck... I can try and figure it out though.

 

i honestly dont know what block. the guy seems to know what hes doing so what ever block is the better block im sure he'll use. hes building my friends supra right now. they just dynoed it with 545hp at the wheel. and thats not fully tuned yet.

 

well you should call him tomorrow (or monday :thinking: ) and ask him what block and what crank he's using. Good to know that kinda stuff

 

well what would be a good set up. maybe i could tell him which one to use if hes using a different one.

 

well, there are a number of things you can do (as Kai mentioned), many of which are good... but cost and simplicity also factors in. If you wan't that good torque, the LS crank is the key ingredient.

The easiest way is to just take an LS block (with crank and rods) and throw some better pistons on there (b16a, b18c, b16b, pretty much any vtec piston will work, its just a matter of how high you're willing to to with your compression ratio). The weak-point in this setup is the rods... they wont be able to rev very high reliably to make good use of that b16 head). In order to make LS rods rev reliably to ~8k+, you'll need to get them shot-peened and use better rod bolts than OEM.

A better way, is to put those same internals (pistons, rods, crank) into a b18c block. The main advantage here (as Kai also earlier pointed out) is that you get oil squirters, a block girdle, and OEM oil passages to activate vtec (none of that crazy oil-line business, no messing with copper plugs, etc). It will perform the same as the above setup, but be more reliable.

Those are your main options using OEM parts (although both have a variety of tweaks possible via piston choice). You can also have your crank balanced and lightened if you plan on having a relatively high redline (or just hanging out at redline much, which isn't a great idea). Beyond that, there are forged pistons and rods... those get kinda pricey and might exceed your budget or goals. I would reccomend using ARP rod bolts and head studs no matter what you do.

 

well im not looking to make a perfect motor just yet. i currently have a d16z6. so its going to be better than that even if i only rev to the current red line of 7200 right? so im just trying to see how reliable its going to be. i only know what ive already told you. ive asked other boards and someone is saying that im being ripped off by the price hes charging me. what do you think the price should be for this. keep in mind that ill need new shift linkage, ac brackets mounts, this is also including the trans obviously, and a new header, cat, and cat back.

 

I really have no idea how much labor costs... my personal opinion has always been that if you don't DIY, you're getting ripped off. But obviously thats a little biased.

The problem with just shooting for just a ~7k redline is that it really doesn't let that vtec head shine. IMO, a plain old b18b is a better motor than a b18c5 from 0-5k rpm... from 5k-7200, you'll be enjoying yourself, but when you shift, you'll drop back down to the pre-changover revs where that head might feel a bit sluggish... Which prompts another question... what transmission are you using? Either B16 or B18c will be ok (i'd personally prefer the shorter gearing of the b16a tranny), but you should avoid the LS tranny.

I dunno... either way, it will definitely be faster than you z6, but I'm just concerned that you wont be satisfied and end up rebuilding it in a year anyway.

 

lol trust me as long as its faster than the del sol vtec with the b16 in it ill be happy. i test drove one of them an loved it. becides ill be turboing it next. but that will be long time from now. i wont get to spend any money on my car for a long time.

edit** i also asked the shop what the red line would be on the ls vtec and he said it would be 8200. so you tell me what to think.

 

that depends on the parts you use. it'd need to go on a dyno first to see where you're making your power. I have a CR-VTEC and it's a lot more torquey than the B16. mine is untuned, but expecting atleast 200 WHP.

if you're going to go turbo down the line, why are you building an LS-VTEC now?