i'd say only about x2 less detail

 

Close enough. h:

 

actually the pcv system is only 1 directional. that is through the valvecover breather (usually connected to the stock intake for the simple fact that any air going into the engine should be filtered) through the crankcase and then through the oil separator and ultimately through the pcv valve and into your intake manifold to be burnt up by the cumbustion cycle. Connecting a breather instead of running it into the into the intake piping before the turbo isnt a bad idea because having the compressor sucking in air from the outside world will cause a sort of syphon affect and actually place a small ammount of vacuum on the side that shouldnt see it. If you connect it to the intake piping before the turbo you should run a catch can so that you dont put oil into your turbo on the compressor side. Either way its hooked up its not going to affect your pcv sustem cause it only opens up when theres vacuum in the manifold anyways ie. youre idling. :thumbup: Just some info for everyone who installs turbos. Neither way is actually wrong but each way should be set up a little differently.

 

:thumbup: for not blowin' shit up!

 

...yet :thumbup:

 

I'm actually very happy nothing has blown up. The Uberdata basemap is rockin in rich until I get on a dyno in a month or so for tuning. No detonation or knocking whatsoever. No overheating issues. Got some new tires put on this morning, Falken Ziex ZE 512 195/60/14 (Ghetto light 14" American Racings). Way better grip than old budget crap. Better treadwear too, surprisingly.

So this morning my boost gauge was reading 4-5 psi instead of 3 like Saturday. I think the gauge is just whack, after more driving with no weight in the car it does feel very quick, especially 2nd and 3rd gear. I had thought I would have more traction issues though. Oh well.

Next project : Manual boost controller, better airflow for intercooler (cut out and screen inner fender behind intercooler), boost 8-10 psi... yay!

New suspension and clutch when the stock stuff bites the dust.

 

you wont have many traction issues on like 3-5 psi....

 

I :love: Bawls!!

 

Ya need it to keep you going through that 7 hr install...

Only 7 hrs due to frequent breaks, lunch, and buddy's Eclipse turbo blowing a coolant line... emergency run to go help took 2 hrs.

Guess the full install took about 4 hrs.

 

Lots of great parts and info for Hondas comes from the DSM crowd, eh?

You're gonna love that BOV unless it leaks. If it does I have a free fix for you. Crush it slightly between two blocks of wood in a bench vise. They've been known to hold 24PSI rock solid after such treatment, but don't do it unless it's leaking air out at idle.

I'm going to have to do the DIY on boost leak testing. It's the single most overlooked tuning problem on turbo setups. It wreaks havoc on cars that have mass airflow sensors or vein pressure controllers, but it shortens the lifespan of your turbo no matter what setup your car uses to meter incoming air because the turbo has to spool to a faster speed before the intake charge reaches the wastegate spring pressure. Not good.

I haven't had the time to test mine yet, and will be doing it maybe as soon as tomorrow. I could take some pics and do a how-to. I have web space to host it. I asked if it would be helpful before and got no response. Here's a tool I made to do it with... costs about $15 to make. HomeDepot or Lowe's performance shops (plumbing department) carries most of what you need to make it.