I've attached a picture of the tranny drain bolt (with a socket wrench inserted). The bolt doesn't take a socket but has a cutout in the end for a 3/8" wrench. If you look carefully at the picture, you can see the fill bolt behind it (below the metal band on the axle boot). To fill it, buy a funnel with a piece of plastic tubing on the end, remove your intake tube and just feed it down in. I believe a D-series tranny takes around 2.2 bottles, so buy 3. I recommend Honda MTF. It's $5 a bottle but how often are you going to change it, just buy the good stuff. You just pour in the about a quarter of the 3rd bottle and let it spill out till it's full right up to the fill bolt hole and your done. Some people say you need to jackup the backend to make it perfect but I never do and haven't had any problems.

Oil is very simple and has pretty much been explained. Only trouble you might have is getting the oil filter loose. I've tried the slide of the end type tools and they don't always work. I attached a picture of the tool I typically use. It's a big pair of pliers most auto parts store sell (this one was from Pepboys). They damage the filter as they take it off, but who cares, your just throwing it away.

Plugs and wires are easy, but I recommend only removing and replacing 1 wire at a time so you know where the replacement goes. If you pull them all off and try to put them back on by memory, you could make a mistake. Cap and rotor are also easy, but like mentioned, you may have to crank the engine to get the screw to show itself. Also, make sure you use the proper sized (basically, big) phillips screwdriver to get the rotor screw loose. You don't want to strip it. With 100k miles on my '98 EX, I really think the cap and rotor made a bit of difference so it's worthwhile. I like NGK plugs and I just used parts store wires, cap and rotor. Good luck with everything and don't try to pull the plugs out of a hot engine, let it cool first.

Edit: Oh yeah, your going to need a long extension to get down to the plugs, probably a 10 inch or so. Make sure you have one or you'll never get the spark plug socket down far enough.

 

Andy's explanations are excellent as are most everyone else's. I just wanted to add that if you have access to a length of rubber tubing with the right diameter, you can use that to screw the sparkplugs in first so that you don't crossthread them.

 

Or, you could use a spark plug socket; although, they are made of space age materials and rather rare. :db:

 

Oh, you mean one of these? :squint: Actually, using a piece of tubing when installing plugs allows for the tubing to blend or slip in case you don't have the plug aligned correctly. You can still crossthread with a sparkplug socket. h:

 

tip: be careful removing the drain plug so it doesn't spew hot oil all over you. I'm a messy wrencher. h: