ok so what would you recomend I do if I am geting 1300$ to spend on whatever I want?

 

save up.

 

you CANNOT do a swap for $1300 (unless you stay d-series which makes no sense). i see no way that is possible. also, with the h22, you need to do A LOT of research. the h22 is a lot heavier than any b-series (thus its heightened power) so you'll probably have to do suspension work as well. it sounds like you're on a budget, so my advice is to go with the b18b1 (94-01 ls integra). this will probably be the cheapest motor you can get. b18c (gsr) will be about a grand more, b16 (civic si) will be more as well. no, its not as powerful, but it has a lot of potential. you could put a vtec head on, go turbo, etc. id guess you could do the b18b swap for under 2grand if you look around and plan everything correctly. mine cost about $3500, but that included suspension (kyb ags +eibach pro kit), a BUILT b18b (eagle rods, arias pistons, 3 angle valve job, stage 3 clutch and lightened flywheel, and a bunch of other shit). if youre not on a budget and you love projects like this, H22 BABY!!!

 

how much does an average b16a 'full' swap go for to put in a 97 civic?

 

I duno but I think what I am going to do is this. Since I have a low budget for now and dont have anything saved up, I am going to get a new clutch and nice suspension, and go from there. I will beef it up for a heavy H22, and in a year or when I get my bonus this july I will go find one at a yard and clean it up, I know how to machine and my buddy has a shop so I can do it myself. Over the weekend I totaly rebuilt the engine it has in it now, I cleand up the head and the valves were lookin nasty so I replaced them, bought some racing valve seals, a thicker headgasket and polished everything up. I also noticed when I took off the intake manifold, there was a nasty thick sticky oil on the inside of the body, I cleand it up and felt inside and it was all ruff and bumpy, I was thinking about buying an Edelbrock but I didnt want to spend too much on it, so I did my best to grind and polish the inside as smooth as posible, I didnt get way in there but I did get most of it smooth, I noticed a big difference after I did everything and it didnt smoke a bit when I started it up to seat the headgasket and break everything in. I did replace the timing belt and water pump, flushed and tested the radiator and took off that piece of plastic next to the radiator that blocks the air from entering and blowing on the exhaust, is there a reason for this to be here or is it just a dumb piece of plastic?? I would think it would help with cooling? But yeah I spent a total of 234.95 on everything and it runs 10X better I also think I got a little more HP. This weekend I am going to buy 2 new tires for my front, somthing nice.... Anyone know a decent tire that wont burn a hole in my pocket??

 

the thing you are missing is if you do a build on say a y8 (for boost or nitrous) it is like a fresh brand new motor and you KNOW what you are getting... if you swap you can get lucky and get a motor in good shape.. OR get a beat to death slipping clutch white smoke spewing POS...

i really believe that building a motor is the KEY to performance.. more than ANYTHING thing else.. this saves TONS of headaches.. ive seen a fair amount of swaps installed and be in really bad shape

 

i got a 98 dx hb....u know d16y7... rite now im gonna put a si cam, si tranny, si pistons,lifters, valves, and headers. then turbo it....i got the si engine for twenty bucks with a spun bearing....put a few of those parts ( cam, tranny, pistons especially) nd youll be pullin...some used je dome piston prolly cost 250, and cam another 250....thats wat id do wit 500

 

Okay, I bought VX hatch for cheap, gutted it, slapped in a brand new block with eagle rods, srp pistons, and a port and polished head and it's faster than my friends coupe with a stock B16A and skunk manifold. All together it cost me around $1,000.00 but I did everything myself and with friends. It by no means a fast car but I don't agree with the whole swap issue 100% even though I have had a few B16's in my coupe.

 

The first B16A I bought for my coupe did'nt last long and the first B16 I had in my old CRX was in pretty sad shap internally when I got it. Yes, a built B is better then a Built D but A freshly built D will cost about the same price as a swap and then your all ready for boost or whatever you wish. I going the built D route now to prove my theory so I'll post my times as the project progresses.

 

:slap:

I vote for a b20 swap. Then do work to it when the money comes....

well, thats my plan, anyways.....