ok, let's say he makes 160HP 130 tq. Those are pretty conservative numbers.

h22 swap, 160ish hp, i will flat out guess and say... 160tq, I don't know the numbers.

But the h22 is 200 lbs heavier than a d-series.

I don't see a problem on a cost/performance basis of turboing his d-series.

It's a cheap, fun, learning experience/project.

-PHiZ

 

and there you go...

 

yeah i wish i could dump an h22... im a poor college kid lol with xmas n my b-day commin around the corner...

 

You ain't the only one. I could use that 1k turbo setup for my D series... If you are serious about selling it....

 

DSM's turbo is a td05, also make sure that you get a 1g DSM bov because the 2g tends to leak after 12psi.

 

:thumbup: Thanks for the info!

And the point that I forgot to explicitly state about the h22 vs the d16, is that the 200lbs might negate the torque advantage.
-PHiZ

 

'

the guy wants to spend 1000 bucks or less and you advise him to buy an h22 to put in his civic. [/QUOTE]

 

The "DSM" turbo is either a Mitsubishi 13c (for 1.6L Mirage/colt's and automatic 2.0L '90-94 Talon/Eclipse/Laser), 14b (for manual 2.0L '90-94 T/E/L), or a 16g (JDM Evo).

95-99 Talons and Eclipses utilize a Garrett T-25 turbocharger that has totally different compressor and exhaust housings, and probably a much more efficient turbo for a Honda.

Both the 14b and 16g have a TD05H, and I'm not positive about this, but the 15g might have it as well. The TD05H designation is just a compressor housing. 13c/14b/15g/16g/19c/20g refer to the compressor wheels. The Mitsubishi TD05H series turbos and the Garrett T-25 have the exact same ehxhaust housing flange and bolt pattern, so either one will fit that adapter plate. T-25's and 14b's are only worth about $150-$200 used. I just sold a 16g for only $300.

You're absolutely right about the 2g BOV. Mine leaked at 7 PSI. I put a 1g on it and it holds 21 PSI without budging.

I have laying around...
cx exhaust manifold (same as a HF)
DSM 450cc injectors
1g BOV
2g BOV
...PM me if you're interested.

I won't turbocharge my D15B7 because the OEM connecting rods are a joke. I doubt the rods would take the added cylinder pressure of what 6PSI would do for very long. I'm serious. D15B7's don't hold up well to any more than a 50-shot of n2o, and you can't turn off a turbo, so a $1000 turbo kit won't out-power/outweigh the benefits of a NA swap or be nearly as reliable. You should seriously consider aftermarket rods if you plan on making any power because that's a lot of work to have to re-do if one of your rods turns into pasta. Do it right. Do it once.

I have a complete spare D15 shortblock with crank, rods, pistons, oil pan, oil pump, and dipstick tube sitting around that I'd sell for $85 if you want to build a project motor. Make it an even $100 and I'll throw in an engine stand.

 

oh yeah... I also have a 2g side-mount intercooler.