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Desert Eagle .50!!

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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 08:50 PM
  #61  
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Originally posted by dliske
Sorry, but I'm Old School. Anytime you fire your gun, you should clean it. You want to make sure it is in the same condition (ready to fire) everytime you use it. A clean, well lubricated semi-auto has the chance of malfunctioning less than a dirty gun. BTW, that leads to another thought...how many of you not only shoot for proficiency, but also practice malfunction drills? If you don't practice them, you should.
as i said...the glock doesn't get as dirty because it doesn't have as much static that causes the gunpowder buildup.

re drills: i got the range @ least once a month & practice target & drill.
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 09:01 PM
  #62  
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I fired a .50 once...it sucked, it kept jamming. I definitely prefer my M1911A1.
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 09:15 PM
  #63  
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Originally posted by azn_redneck
I fired a .50 once...it sucked, it kept jamming. I definitely prefer my M1911A1.
usually a gun will jam if you don't have a tight enough grip on it.

they call it "limp-wristing" it...not saying you're ghay...just if you don't lock your wrist & elbows the gun doesn't have enough force to slam forward on the recoil & it'll jam.

my girl did that alot when i first started to teach her to shoot. she would flinch just as she pulled the trigger & unlock her wrist & it'd jam. when i held her wrists, it wouldn't.
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 09:35 PM
  #64  
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Originally posted by heywoodjablowme

re drills: i got the range @ least once a month & practice target & drill.
Good for you...anyone who shoots with a semi-auto should practice their malfunctions. But, I would be willing to bet that most here don't, and they have no idea how to INSTANTLY deal with a mushy trigger, a stovepipe, or a double-feed. Any of those malfunctions can occur with a semi-auto at anytime, regardless of how clean or dirty the gun is.
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 09:36 PM
  #65  
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how do you deal with a stovepipe?
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 10:08 PM
  #66  
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Originally posted by heywoodjablowme
usually a gun will jam if you don't have a tight enough grip on it.

they call it "limp-wristing" it...not saying you're ghay...just if you don't lock your wrist & elbows the gun doesn't have enough force to slam forward on the recoil & it'll jam.

my girl did that alot when i first started to teach her to shoot. she would flinch just as she pulled the trigger & unlock her wrist & it'd jam. when i held her wrists, it wouldn't.
I don't think that was the problem, I think the ejector was jacked, it wouldn't eject the spent shell casing. Basically, we had to load one round in the magazine, fire it, shake the spent casing out, repeat.

The .50 looks intimidating, but it's pretty difficult to shoot, probably even if the ejector worked. My .45ACP is easy to shoot and very accurate (too bad the mag only holds 7 rounds). Though for home defense purposes, I'll probably just go with the shotgun.
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 10:28 PM
  #67  
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Originally posted by DakarM
how do you deal with a stovepipe?
Probably one of the easiest malfunctions to deal with because you can see it.

This type of malfunction is also called a "failure to eject," and it is often caused by "limp wristing" the gun. In this case, the expended cartidge is not fully ejected and ends up stuck in the ejection port. Hence, the name, stovepipe, because it is typically sticking straight up in the port.

Clearing this malfunction is very easy. After identifying what has happened, make a "blade" with your non-shooting hand, place it on top of the slide without passing over the muzzle, place the edge of your index finger (with all of your other fingers forming a "blade" on your off hand) against the stove-piped cartridge, and sweep back against the cartridge, all the way past the shoulder of you gun hand. The cartridge will eject, the gun will go into battery, and you will be prepared to shoot your next round.
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 11:01 PM
  #68  
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Originally posted by dliske
Probably one of the easiest malfunctions to deal with because you can see it.... The cartridge will eject, the gun will go into battery, and you will be prepared to shoot your next round.
so basically you're rolling the cartridge out with the friction of your index finger? (side of the finger) - really well written instructions but just wasn't 100% clear on a few terms (i don't own a gun)
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 11:11 PM
  #69  
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My father always told me this from the first day I held a gun. so it's been about 11 years now. He said to me "Jess, don't ever get a .50 cal handgun. They're for guys with little dicks" So I stand by that. He's told me this one story about how he bought my uncle a box of .50 cal ammo even though he didn't own one. Great gag gift, so I heard. Even confirmed it with the uncs. He confirmed both the story, and the saying.

But I will use it in CS
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Old Aug 20, 2003 | 11:26 PM
  #70  
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The Desert Eagle, in my opinion, is purely a collector's item and hardly practicial in real life situations. Concealing a weapon that is damn near a foot long would be insanely hard to hide in your jacket, purse, etc.

As for .50 calibre rounds tearing through engine blocks; that is only with rifles, I believe.

For real life purposes, I recommend getting a CZ series weapon, preferably either the CZ-75 or CZ-85 if you got the money for it. The CZ-85 is more expensive because it is newer, but the CZ-75 can still get the job done in a life threatening situation. I think both of the handguns use a .40 calibre bullet, meaning the weapon will not have much recoil, meaning more control over the weapon, not to mention packing much punch. I think both handguns cost around eight hundred, which is cheap compared to some that I have seen around, like H&K and Beretta handguns.

I do not recommend getting a small calibre handgun, like 9mm, .22s, .25s, .32s, or even .38s because they do not pack enough punch to stop a person in their tracks. I have heard of cases where thieves have been shot four times with a 9mm in the chest and stomach and was able to move around. Get something with Magnum rounds in it, or something over .40 calibre.
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