got in the shop last night and made a pen for my wife. This is just how I do it, everybody has their own way, and they're pretty much all different.

First you pick out the wood blank and the pen kit. I picked out a zebrawood blank, and a black titanium click gel writer kit.


Each kit comes with either one or two brass tubes. When there are two tubes, you decide how they'll line up once assembled. You'll want to remember how they go so the grain will match.


Then you cut them down to size, a little longer than the tubes. I use a bandsaw with a little sled. I'm planning on building a new sled that has an adjustable stop, and a clamp so I can keep my fingers away from the blade.


Blank cut down to size.


Then I use the lathe to drill a hole in the center. Some people use a drill press. I'm planning on buying a new drill press so I don't have to switch tools on the lathe as much. They say the lathe is more accurate though. I think it's just personal preference. You have to make sure the hole is centered though, otherwise it won't come out perfectly round and you'll have high spots when you put it all together.


The drilled hole where the brass tube will go.


You use cyanoacrylate adhesive (also known as super glue or CA glue) to glue the tube in the wood. You rough up the tube with some sandpaper first.


While the glue is drying, I prepare the lathe. Each pen kit has bushings that hold the wood in place, and tell you how thick you need the wood to be. The tubes slide onto a mandrel and the brass nut tightens it down. If it's too loose, the wood will just stop when you put the tool on it, and then you can't cut it.


Once the glue is dried and cured (I wait about 2-3 minutes), you get the ends flush with the tubes. I use a disc sander with another sled, some people use a pen mill which has a shaft that goes in the tube, and a cutter on the end. Another personal preference thing.

 

This is the wood on the mandrel, lined up so the grains will match when you're done. Remember, all the markings will be gone once you cut down the wood, so you have know how it's gonna line up when you're done.


This tool is a rougher, because it's made to just rough cut. It's not really a fine precision tool, but it works for me on pens. If you turn something more intricate, you'd need different tools.


Here the wood is nearly round.


You basically just get rid of all the wood until you're close to the bushings. But this is where the shaping starts. You can do any shape you want. I like just a slight ovalness, but some people do some extremes.


Nearly down to the bushings. This is the final shaping. You don't have to get it exactly to the size of the bushings, but you do want it close. Depending on the finish, you might actually go smaller than them if you're gonna build up a lot of finish. I just go a little bigger and then sand them down.


I usually start sanding with 150 grit, and go up to 600. You can see how rough it started out. This wood was easy to tear.


I think for this one I only went up to 400. It depends on the finish. Big difference in how smooth it is.


This is a new finish I'm trying. I start with Boiled Linseed Oil.


Really makes the grain pop. I didn't get a picture, but after that I do CA glue. I did about 6 coats of CA with BLO in between. I don't think it was enough coats. Some people do up to 20 coats.


One the CA finish is done, I wet sand with micro mesh pads, starting at 4,000 grit and go up to 12,000. I'm tring to get rid of all scratches.


Then I use a plastic polish to get a good shine and buff out any other imperfections. Next on my list is a buffing system which is supposedly 100 times better.


I rub it all over with the lathe stopped


And then buff it out with a paper towel with the lathe on. You need a little pressure, and a little heat.


Then you take all the kit components and figure out how they all go together. Yes, you can do it wrong, and it's a pain to take apart.


They have fancy contraptions you can buy to assemble them, but I already had a vice. I just put some hardwood faces on it (I think these are maple), and press the parts into place. It's worked so far. You just have to make sure everything goes in straight because you can crack the wood and then you have to start over.


Here's the finished pen.


You can see how the grain lined up.



I'm still learning, but it's definitely a fun hobby. This pen took about 45 minutes, but I was stopping to take pictures. A pen like this could take only 20 minutes if I'm feeling it. This pen is also one of my favorites that I've done. I think I've been getting better with every pen I do.

 

Nice! Thanks for the pics.

So you taking orders or something? What is the quality of the pen kits youre using?

 

I do take orders. I don't want to cross any TOS, so I don't know how much I can say, but if uyou want to contact me on the side we can set something up.

as far as kit quality, I don't really know. I'm using kits from well established companies that a lot of other pen turners use.

 

Here's my latest commission work (for spanky).

This wood is interesting because it changes colors based on the angle and lighting. It goes from a black to silvery grey.

 

You should make a Facebook page for your business. Get some galleries going and a contact channel.

:boink:

 

I'm working on it. I actually have a page, and website. I just want to make sure I have some good infrastructure before sharing it because I don't want to get overwhelmed with orders that I can't fulfill. Not that I expect a ton of orders, but I want to be prepared.

 

Cool write-up! Looks like a fun hobby, plus those things make for great gifts.

I really like the look of Spanky's pen -- the wood almost looks like carbon fiber in that pic.

 

They have carbon fiber acrylic blanks that look pretty nice. I may try that one day.

 

every time I load the basement I read this thread as "So, I've been making penis"