The info we need --

Amp Power:

50 W x 2 @ 4 Ohms RMS
100 W x 2 @ 2 Ohms RMS
200 W x 1 @ 4 Ohms bridged RMS

Sub Power:

Impedance: 4 ohms
RMS: 150 w - The max power you should send from the amp
Peak: 800 w - this is irrelevant

So if you want to run that sub, hook the positive wire to one channel, and the negative to the other channel. Be sure the gain on the amp is turned about 3\4 of the way up, not completely up.

Tune the crossover's to run only low bass sounds. If there is a selection switch, set it to low pass. Set the adjustment somewhere between 60 - 80, or where ever it sounds best. And what type of box are you using?

What are the symptoms of the alleged blown sub? When you press it down by hand, does it spring back up? Try telling walmart it was defective.

 

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Speci...cation.do#tabs
anyone got experience with this one?

 

Not bad, CC and Best buy are very over priced on Car Audio though.

 

How exactly did you blow your subs?
Did the cone detached warp in any way? surround torn? (this is mechanical issue)
or did you smell something burning and now the voice coil scratches when pushed down? (this is thermal)

Let me clear up some misinfo in this thread,
under powering a sub does NOT kill your sub, leaving it to play fullrange does NOT kill your sub. Clean power does not mean you can't kill your sub with it.

I'm taking a wild guess, your sub was in a ported enclosure?
Under the tuning of the ported enclosure, it doesn't take much to overexcurt the sub. You can blow your subs if you aren't careful with the gains and have no sub sonic filter.

 

bingo


and my box isnt ported

 

Make sure the settings are all the same for both channels.

 

did you set the bass boost level from the amp?

Try not to touch that dial next time. Without the bass boost, most decently built subs can withstand a bit of power with proper gain adjustments (if your HU's output voltage is 4 volts, try to stay around at 4volt at the amp).