Agreed, but I only have so much money, if I mod out enough to need a standalone, I will upgrade. I would mod the crap out of it if I was rich! I felt rich just buying the car lol!

 

read this and you'll have a better understanding of efi tuning: http://www.phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html

crome is practically free. you just have to buy a few hardware pieces to actually tune. www.tunewithcrome.com

 

its too late now, the purchase has been made. I have a hard time believeing that the SAFC is worthless, maybe not the best, but I did read some reviews before I got it. I didnt see anyone say it was worthless.

 

now thats good stuff, thanks for the link!

 

it's not completely worthless. just very limited in capabilities.

 

Agreed.

Put it this way, we're telling you from experience NOT to spend the money on an SAFC cause it will not help much, if any at all...
Seriously, go and ride with someone who has one in a Honda with an intake and exhaust... You will see they are "worthless".

I had one in my EG for like 2 weeks, cause I originally thought it was "cool" and that it would give me extra power (like 3 years ago)... It was from my bro's Galant VR-4 and before he sold it, I just wanted to see what it would do... It did nothing... and after I enriched the fuel trims by more than 10% it would bog out and run like crap... I was in the same shoes as you at the time, and I found out real quick how useless they are... Needless to say, now I'm turbo'ed and I try and explain to younger people that their CAI and exhaust won't do anything, and to save for something that will... Actually, the best is when someone with a modded version of the same car races someone with a stock version, and the stocker wins, then they feel like morons for spending all that money for NOTHING...

Look for yourself, if I recall correctly there was a prelude owner who had I/H/E and realized that his car was far less powerful throughout the powerband after he drove in his friend's stock version... It's on this site...

You are saying you read reviews about them and that noone seemed to think they were useless... You were obviously talking to the wrong people... Most likely marketing or advertising agents who just want you to spend your money... It all comes down to the SAFC being a piggyback, and it can only really adjust ever so slightly the fuel trims. But since you have nothing to help the motor breathe any better, it will only hurt you...

Honestly, you have a Lude, why not keep it close to stock... It's quick anyway, and you're just gonna kill your driveability by trying to adjust your fuel maps that were originally designed by Engineers and countless hours of research & development.

Sell the SAFC and save for the Type-S conversion...
The conversion includes higher compression pistons and different cams...
I'll tell you this is where I'm going with my 97 SH... It has a CAI that came on it after I bought it used, that's it... My next upgrade if anything, is the Type-S conversion, cause it's proven and it's all OEM parts...

 

I definatly want to get a turbo, but I know that would be 2-3k minimum. I actually dont know if I would do a turbo or a tranny swap first. Its a sport shift model. I have had no issues with the sport shift. Its acually really nice to be able to switch back n forth. Dispite what ever mods I end up doing to the car, if the tranny cant handle it and craps out, I'm goin to manual. I plan on keeping this car.

(please save the auto lude is garbage, heard it 100 times, I own one, my only complaint, the 5hp loss, the gain, optional conveniance)

So I have been thinking of the s type conversion. I dont have another car for downtime, nor knowledge to do it fast. I dont know how much it would cost to have it professionally done. when I called the local shop, they told me I might as well just get a used s type motor.

Question: type S conversion vs. turbo what do you think? costs vs. gains

All things considered, I guess I will just put it in with the harness, that way it isnt hard wired, if it doesnt work I can take it out without ever knowing it was there, if the diagnotstics are cool enough, I will just keep it for that. If it just sucks, I'll sell it.

Thank you all for your input, it is appreciated.

 

Well, I know from viewing these forums and reading other sources that the H22a is not Boost friendly, and in order to make it reliable with a boosted setup, would require lots of work and extra money...

For one, the cylinder walls are made of Fiber-Reinforced Metal (FRM) The reason this was introduced is that the FRM walls produce less friction and therefore can last longer and offer better performance. You would need to have these replaced with more traditional sleeves, in order to use forged pistons, which is what you want or else you can't run much boost or you ruin the motor... Someone else please elaborate... it's not nearly as easy to boost an H22 as it is to boost a B-series...

And I won't rip on ya for the auto tranny, but you know what I would say having an SH myself!

So, considering you would need a better tranny just to drive with a turbo, and the conversion can cost alot anyway, I don't see any other option for you other than the Type-S conversion.

Now, the guy told you that cause he either cannot do the internal work himself, or he's trying to make a killing by charging you $$$ to put in a type-s motor... Oh and you need the ECU also for the Type-s conversion...

The type-S will not add nearly as much power as a turbo, but you must understand that with a turbo your car will need to be "babied" and this is not good for a DD... I'm not saying it can't be done, by no means, but with a beginner it can become overwhelming...

Put it this way, I've weighed the same proposition as you have, but considering my experience with my boosted EG, I would have to say a Type-S conversion is the best option, given reliability and daily driving... Not to mention gas costs (turbo will EAT gas)...

If you really want turbo, sell your car and buy 2 used civics... One can be a DD and the other your turbo monster... LOL

 

lmao! thats funny (civics)

Well thanks again for the good input. I always seem to get good information here. Sometimes it isnt what you want to hear, but I'm not the "ignorance is bliss" type. After looking at the price of the harness $160 dollars, the slight chance it will help is getting more an more costly. So if I got the Apexi, and harness, I would be in it 460. I dont know if the harness takes away the need to have it installed $150 dollars. if not, I would be up to $610! I can get the s type conversion cam shafts for like fifty more dollars.

I noticed you said the conversion replaced some other parts as well. Have you done any checking to see how much it would cost to have done, or were you just planning on doing the work yourself? What are the costs on all the parts needed? Any idea of final cost would be helpful.

Thanks again.

 

LOL u don't like that idea for 2 civics? LOL
Yes, good information here is plentiful, yet there are always some morons who spread misinformation, so watch out...

Concerning the cost of the SAFC installation:
-you buy the harness so YOU can plug it in, no re-wiring, no soldering... No need to take it to a shop if you buy the harness... If you did, you would be giving them $150 to plug it in LOL...
-In the end you will have paid $460 for some "cool" vacuum-flourescent gauges, that's it... it won't help you make power unless you have a slew of other mods (like cams, port & polish, higher C/R, bigger valves, etc)

So, you must make the decision. It seems like you are realizing that the SAFC is not what you thought it was...I would personally sell the SAFC and be that much closer to having enough for the Type-S conversion... And the Type-S conversion will earn you WORLDS, I mean WORLDS more respect than installing an SAFC...

The conversion can be had on Ebay and other sites all in one package... I've never looked for it myself, cause I don't have the $$$ right now... But from what I understand, the package contains the following 3 components:
-camshafts
-higher compression pistons (11:1 vs 10:1)
-Retuned ECU

Now, you would need new piston rings, and a headgasket to install these parts, but it will net a proven 20HP at the crank...

As for the cost, for me it will be only parts cost, cause I do all of my own work... But Labor unfortunately is where it will cost you most... Out in Idaho, are there any Honda guys you can befriend? I always tell people I'll chill & supervise if they would do their own work...

Best bet is to go in person and talk to some shops... Chances are there is SOMEONE with a Honda that can help you...
Good luck, keep us posted!