00 SH oil change
Snapping bolts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, Ca
^^Thanks.
First of all you dont need it, theres no need to prep the motor for synthetic oil, secondly I would advise against it because it takes a few oil changes to get all of the motor flush out of the motor. When you drop the oil after the flush it stays in the lines ect and I wouldint want that stuff flowing through there for an extended period of time. Now changing to synthetic from dyno is a great idea because it provides better protection, as well as cleans out your motor from all of the sludge but it does it slower then the motor flush, and without the harsh chemicals. People will say that after a certain amount of miles it is not a good idea to swich to synthetic because it causes your motor to start leaking oil. What the synthetic does is clean out all of the sludge that is clinging on to the seals, which is sometimes whats stoping them from leaking. When you start running the synthetic all that sludge will start breaking off the motor and get caught by your filter. So esentially the synthetic will clean your motor and I would consider it safer then the flush as it does not contain any harsh cleaning agents like kerosene.
Heres an example of a valve cover ran with dyno and one that was ran with synthetic oil.
Dyno on top and synthetic on bottom.
Photos taken from here,
http://www.preludeonline.com/showthr...il+valve+cover
First of all you dont need it, theres no need to prep the motor for synthetic oil, secondly I would advise against it because it takes a few oil changes to get all of the motor flush out of the motor. When you drop the oil after the flush it stays in the lines ect and I wouldint want that stuff flowing through there for an extended period of time. Now changing to synthetic from dyno is a great idea because it provides better protection, as well as cleans out your motor from all of the sludge but it does it slower then the motor flush, and without the harsh chemicals. People will say that after a certain amount of miles it is not a good idea to swich to synthetic because it causes your motor to start leaking oil. What the synthetic does is clean out all of the sludge that is clinging on to the seals, which is sometimes whats stoping them from leaking. When you start running the synthetic all that sludge will start breaking off the motor and get caught by your filter. So esentially the synthetic will clean your motor and I would consider it safer then the flush as it does not contain any harsh cleaning agents like kerosene.
Heres an example of a valve cover ran with dyno and one that was ran with synthetic oil.
Dyno on top and synthetic on bottom.
Photos taken from here,
http://www.preludeonline.com/showthr...il+valve+cover
You Big Dummy
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
From: Northwest Florida
I don't see why that first valve cover would be so horrible, I mean I've got 227, xxx miles on my Prelude and the valve cover looks nothing like that.
BTW, dino has always been used in it.
BTW, dino has always been used in it.
Snapping bolts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, Ca
Originally Posted by 2legit2quit
I don't see why that first valve cover would be so horrible, I mean I've got 227, xxx miles on my Prelude and the valve cover looks nothing like that.
BTW, dino has always been used in it.
BTW, dino has always been used in it.
Heres an example of a valve cover ran with dyno and one that was ran with synthetic oil.
The post that I got the photos from.
Originally Posted by Gerhard from PO
Below (EDITORS NOTE, ABOVE) is a valve cover that used dino oil for 70k (ish) and my valve cover that has 120k on it. (Mine is the clean one... it's NEVER been cleaned.)
This is not a fluke... this is VERY common with the H22 engines.
I recently had to do the oil pan gasket and the oil pan was also PERFECTLY CLEAN.
There is a 50k mile difference between the two engines and my H22A4 is flawlessly clean... where the dino 70k engine has all of that gum and varnish.
I've seen several other H22A4's with exactly the same comparision and contrast.
Synthetic lubes work as advertised.
I've used primarily Mobil 1 and AMSOIL. There is less than 10k on the car with dino lubes.
This is not a fluke... this is VERY common with the H22 engines.
I recently had to do the oil pan gasket and the oil pan was also PERFECTLY CLEAN.
There is a 50k mile difference between the two engines and my H22A4 is flawlessly clean... where the dino 70k engine has all of that gum and varnish.
I've seen several other H22A4's with exactly the same comparision and contrast.
Synthetic lubes work as advertised.
I've used primarily Mobil 1 and AMSOIL. There is less than 10k on the car with dino lubes.
Snapping bolts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, Ca
Originally Posted by Draconius
awesome...thanks for the answer. Do you know what the "mileage" is that you shouldn't switch over from dyno to synth is?
