Crank Pully Bolt... HELP ME
I have all belts un-belted, and the car jacked up, i have a long wrench on the pully nut, and i crank to turn the engine. I'm supposed to get it to TDC, i do that... then i try to stablize the pully to take it off (using an old belt to a strut bar) and it still turns the engine, i have someone step on the brakes, but since the car is off, i can out-wrench the brakes....
any ideas?!?!?!!?!
thanks in advance.
any ideas?!?!?!!?!
thanks in advance.
The crank pulley bolt is difficult to take off with just an extension. i had the same problem with my civic. it is so difficult cuz you have to break that "factory" seal. use a 150-200psi compressor and it will pop that thing off. if you do not have access to one, go down to a shop and just ask them if they can pop it off and then just tighten it again. then you will be able to loosen it with an extension. good luck to you. PM me if you have any questions.
let me see. There is a tool that fits on the pulley opening. Look close and you will see the shape of a big hex in the middle of the pulley. You place the big hex type tool in there and then a pip can fit onto that. Then drape the pipe over the front brace. That will stop the rotation.
I opened the bottom and took out the windage tray and jammed a crow bar up into the casing to jam the crank shaft- that stopped the rotation. I won't use that method again it was scary.
If you open the bottom get a couple bolts and bolt the flywheel bottom to trans casing bolthole. The flywheel and crank will be inhibited.
Oh, when I finally stopped the crank from rotating I had a 1/2" breaker bar and a 4 ft 1.5" pipe sleeved on top of that. Then I remember pushing down with all my weight. When the bolt finally gave I got faced. What a loud sound, not like a .62 magnum but certainly a .45 cal. I got up and laughed at how nervous I had been throughout. Next time I'll be rarin' to go!!! KICK OUT THE JAMS!!!
I opened the bottom and took out the windage tray and jammed a crow bar up into the casing to jam the crank shaft- that stopped the rotation. I won't use that method again it was scary.
If you open the bottom get a couple bolts and bolt the flywheel bottom to trans casing bolthole. The flywheel and crank will be inhibited.
Oh, when I finally stopped the crank from rotating I had a 1/2" breaker bar and a 4 ft 1.5" pipe sleeved on top of that. Then I remember pushing down with all my weight. When the bolt finally gave I got faced. What a loud sound, not like a .62 magnum but certainly a .45 cal. I got up and laughed at how nervous I had been throughout. Next time I'll be rarin' to go!!! KICK OUT THE JAMS!!!
put the car back on the ground, put it in 5th gear, put on the ebrake and block the drive wheels. Get a 3 to 4 foot breaker bar(I like to use the long handle on my my jack) on a high quality 1/2" drive ratchet or a 1/2 inch breaker bar(Ive always used my craftsman)Tug away... you can easily put 200lb+ of torque with enough leverage. There's no way youre going to move the car if it blocked and on the ground.


