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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 01:21 AM
  #11  
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Eddiebx
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Originally Posted by preludedriver99
You must poop money bro. Have fun trying to put a 200 shot to 11.5 to 1 pistons!!!! You'll have hours and hours of tuning it! I myself just had my h22a4 sleeved and built by Golden Eagle and I used the same piston compression as you. I'm excited that I chose all motor instead of low compression and a turbo you have to tune to run right all the time. You know a lot I can tell just by the mods you listed. I myself would like to go back to nitrous, I pulled a 13.88 at 102.33 mph on just a 75 shot and basic mods in a SH. I had my head fully built by portflow with stage 2 crowers and upgraded portflow valvetrain. I spoke extensively to Golden eagle today as a matter of fact and I explained everything I'm having done to the head. I said honestly man what type of hp should I expect and he said don't be surprised if you see 300 plus with a standalone at the crank. I'm putting the target at 230 to the wheels for now. Time will tell!

whats wrong with sprayin on high comp? nitrous is not like turbo or supercharge, they love high compression. my boy sprayed 150shot on a built 11.5:1 f22 all day long. and will step up to a 250shot soon.

and whoever thinks they are gonna make 475hp on an all motor h22 or h23 or whatever combo is smoking so really really extremely good shit, and right about now, would love get a hit of that good stuff. perhaps if you run 20:1 compression and run 1000 octance gas it might be possible,
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 08:51 AM
  #12  
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c16
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 07:49 AM
  #13  
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I wanna go n/a so bad. I am also an avid believer in not going forced induction, mostly to be different.

Biggest question for me is this: Where do I start? I think I want to keep my H22A4, and just build it up. I just have no idea what the first step is?!
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 08:36 AM
  #14  
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The sad part is, you guys are talking about a car that was modeled after the Great Nissan Silvia. All that and only 300hp? A 350 will do that with intake and exaust alone, and if your going to spend that kind of money, just buy an M3
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 08:39 PM
  #15  
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I think that if you are thinking in that context, then everything can be linked to something else. Basically what I am saying is, your point?
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Old Jul 24, 2004 | 10:58 PM
  #16  
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Bud, here is a good basis and info on golden eagle mfg one of the best and most reliable engine builders around. I just went N/A with all forged internals. I'll let you know the numbers when I have them! I went with Je 11.5 to 1 pistons!To get your H22a block sleeved up to 89 mm will run you $950.
To get your H22 block sleeved up to 91 mm ( for all-motor ONLY ) will
run you $1050.
This includes putting our new "HD" series sleeves into your block, cleaning
and decking - Two Options: If nothing is specified about the deck when we
receive the block, it will be decked to our standards with no o-ring.
1. step deck which is usually for block that do not have enough room for
an o-ring due to large bores. It is our "STANDARD"
2. O-ring - which we like to put on all motors if possible. Works great
on turbo or NOS cars. ( $50 additional charge )

Remember, we use all CNC equipment to do the sleeving portion
of the operation so no one can touch us when it comes to quality,
craftsmanship, tolerances and turn-around. NO ONE!! Plus, our blocks
get pressure tested before they leave to ensure a perfect block every time!
Quality and reliability are always our top concerns. Turn around time is
approx. 10 - 15 working days.

We can bore and hone your block but this process is an additional
$125.00, adds 3 - 5 days to the turn around time and we need the pistons
in order to get the process done.

To build your H22 if you supply the pistons and rods will run you 2148.11 and if you want us to supply the pistons and rods let me know what brnds you want and i will get you prices for that Our standard engine building services include:

Engine Sleeving
Line Boring (ensures the most H.P. and reliability from the motor)
Bore & Hone
Arias, JE, Wiseco, ENDYN, CP, or Probe Pistons
Crower, Eagle, Pauter, Carrillo or Cunningham Rods
Balancing The Rotating Assembly
Crank Sizing
Rod Sizing
Micro-Polishing The Crank
New ACL Rod, Main and Thrust Bearings
Step Decking

Jet Wash Cleaning
Bead Blasting The Block To Make It Look New
Full Blueprinting And Assembly


Options Include:

Combustion Chamber O-ring
Deck Plate
Custom Length Rods In Steel, Aluminum And Titanium
Stroker Cranks In Almost Any Size
Clearancing The Block For Massive Stroke Lengths
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Old Jul 25, 2004 | 06:58 AM
  #17  
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Wow, lots of useful info that there post. Do you have a webpage I can refer to? Wow, lots of cash going in there. But I can see where it would be worth it. I am kinda new to all of these things, but I have to learn somewhere.

So I should start with getting the block sleeved and getting some new pistons and rods? That is what I am getting from your post preludedriver. Also, what compression ratio do you recommend? You say you are running 11.5 to 1, how is it doing for you?
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Old Jul 25, 2004 | 08:40 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by nismo_bmw_cc
The sad part is, you guys are talking about a car that was modeled after the Great Nissan Silvia. All that and only 300hp? A 350 will do that with intake and exaust alone, and if your going to spend that kind of money, just buy an M3
What the **** is your problem? Is the only thing your good at is saying negative things?? Why don't you quit bashing preludes and acutally go and buy a car.......
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