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1988 Prelude does not want to shift....

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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 08:07 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by bigt61
check your master cylinder as well.
Master cylinder is fine apparently. It does it's job on pumping the fluid. Slave is the issue I think.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 08:08 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by ludeboom
the release fork should have resistance on it if the slave cylinder is removed. it connects to the throwout bearing and then the pressure plate which is not easy to engage by hand.
there is some play but not alot.
that is why the clutch is hydraulic like the brakes

~boom
Thanks for the insight! I didn't want to think about spending some cash to rip out the tranny and work on the plates and stuff. A pain in the ass for a do it yourselfer.

Off I go to find me a slave cylinder (or repair kit... whatever's available)
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 08:10 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ludeboom
did you bleed it correctly?
you realize you need 2 people for this right?
id recommend at least buying the chiltons or haynes manual, make your life alot easier.

are you able to detect any leaks from under the engine/tranny while bleeding

if the reservoir is empty then of course you will have no pressure, there has to be fluid at all times while pumping and bleeding...
otherwise you will suck air into the line

~boom
This is my manual actually....

http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/PreludeManual/index.html

in case anyone else wanted it.

Not like a Haynes manual (I have the Chilton's as well) but I know this is always available if I need it.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 09:25 PM
  #14  
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how exactly are you bleeding it? it's not the same as bleeding brakes... It definitely sounds like air in the line.
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 11:06 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Tinkersan
Thanks for the insight! I didn't want to think about spending some cash to rip out the tranny and work on the plates and stuff. A pain in the ass for a do it yourselfer.

Off I go to find me a slave cylinder (or repair kit... whatever's available)
yea they sell reman-ed slave cylinders from companies like cardone and usa industries. they are pretty good, i mean they are rebuilt but they are still original castings so the fit is perfect. worth it by me especially since usa industries is located really close to my area.

Originally Posted by Tinkersan
This is my manual actually....

http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/PreludeManual/index.html

in case anyone else wanted it.

Not like a Haynes manual (I have the Chilton's as well) but I know this is always available if I need it.
excellent, do they have other years of prelude manuals available?
i have my helms...but an online resource is always good too.

i used to have a 90 si, stick.
great car, sold it last year but it was light as hell and i rallied that thing many a time, great car but expensive and hard to find parts for.


~boom
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Old Apr 13, 2004 | 08:07 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ludeboom
yea they sell reman-ed slave cylinders from companies like cardone and usa industries. they are pretty good, i mean they are rebuilt but they are still original castings so the fit is perfect. worth it by me especially since usa industries is located really close to my area.



excellent, do they have other years of prelude manuals available?
i have my helms...but an online resource is always good too.

i used to have a 90 si, stick.
great car, sold it last year but it was light as hell and i rallied that thing many a time, great car but expensive and hard to find parts for.


~boom
I can't remember how I stumbled upon that online manual, but I assume they have ones for later years as well. Note when you get to the root of the website, there is no way for you to get into the links! weird.

Anyway.. I did get a new slave cylinder.. put it in just about 20 minutes ago, and had my bro help me bleed the line... I got more pressure in the pedal than the old cylinder, so I know that helps... but I still can't shift it in gear. The pedal has more pressure for sure.. but not like how it was when I was able to shift. The master cylinder, how can you tell that thing is working properly? I mean.. I can pump it with the bleed valve open and I get all the liquid out.. so I assume that it's doing it's job. I can see the fork move back and forth as you push on the clutch pedal, but maybe the fork isn't moving enough to have anything to do with the bearing inside the tranny..
I didn't hear a loud snap when I lost the ability to shift with the clutch, so I think the fork isn't broken. I still think I don't have enough pressure in the line like how you're supposed to have it to shift.

On the onset.. if you can powershift, then essentially your tranny is still good right? if you can't powershift, then it may be an even bigger issue than just the master and slave cylinders...

Any insight would be great!
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 12:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by prelude5731
sounds like you need a new damn car. it's a freaking 88.
humbug...

My friend and I have almost 700,000 miles between an 88 Lude and an 89 Accord. We know how to get our moneys worth!
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Old Apr 15, 2004 | 06:45 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by highmileage
humbug...

My friend and I have almost 700,000 miles between an 88 Lude and an 89 Accord. We know how to get our moneys worth!
Yeah... not giving up.. it'll cost about $300 for labour to fix, but dunno on parts.. at least that's what I was quoted..
it's not the master/slave cylinder.. they're doing the job.

rats!
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 08:30 AM
  #19  
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if the clutch is bled correctly, it sounds like it may be your master cyl. it may have a hole in the diaphram, meaning that it can still move fluid, but cant build enough pressure to fully pull out the pressure plate.

if there is a whirring or other odd noise coming from the tranny at idle in neutral...then the throwout bearing is bad. however that seems less likely to me.

~boom
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 12:37 PM
  #20  
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From all the details you're giving us and the fact that there are no leaks it does sound internal to the tranny. Either a clutch part has crapped out or one of the syncronizers has totally bit the dust and your gear against gear now or something. I'm not mechanic but if there are no leaks and the clutch fork is moving back and forth like it should then you gotta go inside
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