Help Car Wont Start
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,759
Likes: 0
From: DFW Texas
Originally posted by Meguel24
I agree, its just that ish always happends when you dont want it. I was on a trip about 400 miles away from home, had to return home the next day for jury duty and the car did not want to start, oh it was also Sunday afternoon (all shops closed). It always happens when you don't want it to. Just had to bite the bullet on that one. But i have life time warranty on this one
I agree, its just that ish always happends when you dont want it. I was on a trip about 400 miles away from home, had to return home the next day for jury duty and the car did not want to start, oh it was also Sunday afternoon (all shops closed). It always happens when you don't want it to. Just had to bite the bullet on that one. But i have life time warranty on this one
Platinum Plus Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
From: First in line
Originally posted by kento
I would've just push started my car (assuming you have a manual).... anyway, my starter went out before too... instead of even paying the $60 to have it rebuilt, just pull it out and take a dremel to the contact points in the solenoid... takes 20 mins, costs nothing, and has been running strong for the last 40k
I would've just push started my car (assuming you have a manual).... anyway, my starter went out before too... instead of even paying the $60 to have it rebuilt, just pull it out and take a dremel to the contact points in the solenoid... takes 20 mins, costs nothing, and has been running strong for the last 40k
Dam, I feel like i was taken to the cleaners ova' hea'. :wtc: :doh: :slap:
So OG it hurts.
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 6,592
Likes: 0
From: VA
i dunno you may wanna check out the alternator, and the belt. could be bad.
if it was running and then just stopped i don't know how the starter would play into it.
i'd look into something like that.
i'm dont' know if you run off the battery if the alternator belt breaks, or if the alternator is bad, but i'd start there then the ignition and stuff.
you could change the fuel filter and stuff pretty easy to do also.
fuel pump is also easy to replace.
i always check the alternator
if it was running and then just stopped i don't know how the starter would play into it.
i'd look into something like that.
i'm dont' know if you run off the battery if the alternator belt breaks, or if the alternator is bad, but i'd start there then the ignition and stuff.
you could change the fuel filter and stuff pretty easy to do also.
fuel pump is also easy to replace.
i always check the alternator
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Thx for all the replies guys , im really thinkin its fuel , we re gapped my plugs today after checkin the timing belt(wasnt online for 2 days if i had been wouldnt have wasted time) plz dont flame me for this but i broke one of my ****in valve cover bolts needless to say im gettin a torque wrench tommorow. Help with this new prob is also very much appreciated , im thinkin fuel because when i turn the swithc to ac/electrical the ac blows regular air and not cold air because the ac uses gas also so if its not workin right it could also be that , i charged the ac last week so thats y i have my current assumption , PLZ help me with the bolt i know it was a dumbass thing to do but plz no flames just help , THX a bunch to all of u guys , gonna rip my seat out tonight and check filter and pump,thx again , peace
Floyd
Floyd
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 21,573
Likes: 0
Originally posted by turbovic
im thinkin fuel because when i turn the swithc to ac/electrical the ac blows regular air and not cold air because the ac uses gas also so if its not workin right it could also be that , i charged the ac last week so thats y i have my current assumption
im thinkin fuel because when i turn the swithc to ac/electrical the ac blows regular air and not cold air because the ac uses gas also so if its not workin right it could also be that , i charged the ac last week so thats y i have my current assumption
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
From: York, Pa
I'm assuming the bolt broke while torquing it down...then get an easy-out from pep-boys or somewhere like that and get it out. As for the car not starting I would check to see if you have any spark. If you don't check your coil and ignitor. Usually if it's the fuel system there are signs of the pump going out or the filter being clogged. A/C deosn't work without the car running.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
I had a coil go bad on me for no really good reason once....car just started, ran for 5 seconds and died on me. Very unpleasant but i fixed it myself later. Did you check to see if your getting a spark? When you turn the car to the on position, see if your fuel pump is turning on, should go on for 2 seconds. Stick your ear near the open gas tank fill hole and have someone turn the car to on. Should hear a little noise. If the pumps working chances are your getting fuel. You can always check by pulling the fuel line off of the engine too and see if fuel comes out when you try to turn the car over.
Check your spark next by taking a plug out and plugging it back into the spark plug wire, hold the plug on the engine block and have someone try to turn the car over. make sure the ground of the plug is touching a grounded part of the engine (valve cover should be fine.) Make sure your getting a spark. If you have spark and fuel, assumeing your timing belt is not broken then post back here.
Check your spark next by taking a plug out and plugging it back into the spark plug wire, hold the plug on the engine block and have someone try to turn the car over. make sure the ground of the plug is touching a grounded part of the engine (valve cover should be fine.) Make sure your getting a spark. If you have spark and fuel, assumeing your timing belt is not broken then post back here.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Not getin sprak u guys , my uncle told me the same trick to check spark and none at all , took of the distributor cap and everything LOOKED ok but i didnt take off the rotor or coil thats wat im doin tommorow im gonna try to get back on sooner this time , this car is issin me and my uncle off . but yea , and i WILL NOT subjsect my car to some useless ass mechanic who will tell me some **** i already knew and charge me $90 or some **** to even look at it sry im just a BIG do it urselfer thx for the help guys peace
Floyd
Floyd
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
Testing the coil is kinda hard to explain. I'll try anyway.
Make sure the ignition is off btw when you do this. As the coil sits in the distributor on the left side of the coil is the actual nobbie thing with the spring/coil sticking out right? To the right of that spring is a terminal. That is the negative terminal. The positive terminal is just below the negative, slighty rescessed. For greater clarity the negative terminal has a white and blue wire on it, the positive terminal has a...black and yellow wire on it.
The resistance between the coil and the positive terminal should be between 12.8-19.2 k ohms on your meter. The resistance between the positive and negative terminal should be .6-.8 ohms.
If your coil is out of spec its like an 80 dollar part from Kragen. That could be why your not getting spark.
Also make sure your spark plug wires are not fuxxored. Their resistance should be no more than 25k ohm.
If your coil is in spec then your Ignition Control Module might have broken, I think its sorta $$$ to. Post back if you need to test that thing. (the ICM sits below the coil at about 45 degrees, it has a yellow/green wire, a black/yellow wire, and a white/blue wire plugged into it. Its like a small stack of credit cards in size and i think its coppery looking.
Make sure the ignition is off btw when you do this. As the coil sits in the distributor on the left side of the coil is the actual nobbie thing with the spring/coil sticking out right? To the right of that spring is a terminal. That is the negative terminal. The positive terminal is just below the negative, slighty rescessed. For greater clarity the negative terminal has a white and blue wire on it, the positive terminal has a...black and yellow wire on it.
The resistance between the coil and the positive terminal should be between 12.8-19.2 k ohms on your meter. The resistance between the positive and negative terminal should be .6-.8 ohms.
If your coil is out of spec its like an 80 dollar part from Kragen. That could be why your not getting spark.
Also make sure your spark plug wires are not fuxxored. Their resistance should be no more than 25k ohm.
If your coil is in spec then your Ignition Control Module might have broken, I think its sorta $$$ to. Post back if you need to test that thing. (the ICM sits below the coil at about 45 degrees, it has a yellow/green wire, a black/yellow wire, and a white/blue wire plugged into it. Its like a small stack of credit cards in size and i think its coppery looking.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Ok im finally back , been gone for a while had to sort out a bunch of family **** plus some extra gf **** to top it off , i got my cap and **** off but some ass rounded out the retaining screw to my rotor so now im pissed , i gotta go get a ****en easy out kit before i can even test the damn coil . just wanted to give an update , peace