crvtec
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Joined: Jun 2001
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Just get your block resleeved to 2 liters. You'll end up with just as much displacement, better rod ratio, oil squirters, save yourself a hell of a lot of money, and still have the reliability of a non-frank motor.
Thread Starter
~~~~~~~~~
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 473
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
alright thanx everyone for any help i guess i'll rethink some things then decide what i wanna go for......but for the fvcking hilljack that actually took time to make a screen name and then get on this board just to say some stupid ass remark.....**** you 6teefbobby ur ****in ghey.....:madfawk: :madfawk: i hate pieces of ****...
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The type R head comes port and polished from the factory, it is an exception.
The shortblock has nothing to do with head flow. That is on a flow bench, not connected to an engine at all, just raw measuring how much air it can flow at different lifts.
The shortblock has nothing to do with head flow. That is on a flow bench, not connected to an engine at all, just raw measuring how much air it can flow at different lifts.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 662
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Originally posted by qtiger
The type R head comes port and polished from the factory, it is an exception.
The shortblock has nothing to do with head flow. That is on a flow bench, not connected to an engine at all, just raw measuring how much air it can flow at different lifts.
The type R head comes port and polished from the factory, it is an exception.
The shortblock has nothing to do with head flow. That is on a flow bench, not connected to an engine at all, just raw measuring how much air it can flow at different lifts.
wned: :jlammy:
DeeCeeFo'
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,755
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From: Scranton PA
Well all I can input is check out www. importbuilders.com they have numerous honda/acura engine build-ups, ready to go and they are hondata capable now. It will just cost you. The swap you want comes fully built from them @ a pricey $12,000.
ECHC junkee
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 327
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From: Charlotte, NC
If you are planning on putting together a CR/VTEC (b20 VTEC) motor, there are a few things you need to look at. Any VTEC head(b16, b17a, b18c1, b18c5) will work when putting this "frankenstein" motor together. Your best bet however, is to use a b16a head because it has a larger combustion chamber than the b18c1 head, which in turn allows for a little bit more displacement, and less worry about detonation. Luckily, the b20 block already has a bung in the backside of the engine block for the oil lines that you'll need to run to the head. You will also have to wire up a knock sensor and VTEC solenoid. That's just a simplified version, but hopefully you'll get the idea. It's not impossible, it jus takes time and patience. This is definately a project that yout want to have someone with knowledge working with you, or for you.
There are many good webpages that discuss the pros and cons of this and the LS/VTEC (b18a, b18b/VTEC) setups. A lot of people will talk crap about these hybrid motors, but the bottom end on these blocks were not build quite like the factory VTEC engines. Of course the motor will have reliablity issues if you try to rev to 8,000+ constantly, but any motor, even if it was a b18c1 or b18c5 will show signs of wear when revved like that all day long. The right way to build a hybrid motor like that is to get forged rods and pistons, to make sure and use good head bolts(non-factory forged bolts). These will take the strain much better than the stock ones that were not intended to rev that high. Also, micropolishing/knife edge balancing the crank with at least a 8,000 RPM balancing will help ensure longer engine life. Just remember that anything built well will last if it's not abused, if not, well, you're stuck with what you made.
Do a search on here for both LS/VTEC and CRVTEC, and any other sites that you may be on.
I would suggest that you stick with your current b18c1 and
eventually build the bottom end to withstand boost, although with proper tuning, you can boost your stock motor to a reasonable level(no more than about 8lbs. max, but recommended no more than 5-6 lbs. for daily driving). Tuning is the key. You need to decide what you want to accomplish in the long run, and don't cheap out on parts, it will come back to bite you in the butt. Hope this helps you.
There are many good webpages that discuss the pros and cons of this and the LS/VTEC (b18a, b18b/VTEC) setups. A lot of people will talk crap about these hybrid motors, but the bottom end on these blocks were not build quite like the factory VTEC engines. Of course the motor will have reliablity issues if you try to rev to 8,000+ constantly, but any motor, even if it was a b18c1 or b18c5 will show signs of wear when revved like that all day long. The right way to build a hybrid motor like that is to get forged rods and pistons, to make sure and use good head bolts(non-factory forged bolts). These will take the strain much better than the stock ones that were not intended to rev that high. Also, micropolishing/knife edge balancing the crank with at least a 8,000 RPM balancing will help ensure longer engine life. Just remember that anything built well will last if it's not abused, if not, well, you're stuck with what you made.
Do a search on here for both LS/VTEC and CRVTEC, and any other sites that you may be on.
I would suggest that you stick with your current b18c1 and
eventually build the bottom end to withstand boost, although with proper tuning, you can boost your stock motor to a reasonable level(no more than about 8lbs. max, but recommended no more than 5-6 lbs. for daily driving). Tuning is the key. You need to decide what you want to accomplish in the long run, and don't cheap out on parts, it will come back to bite you in the butt. Hope this helps you.