Notices

how much for a brake job?

Thread Tools
 
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 09:57 AM
  #11  
Shingoblade-GSR's Avatar
Shingoblade-GSR
Hellsing Agency
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,561
Likes: 0
Default

Originally posted by Chin
What glue? Do you mean anti-squeal?
Yeap, on the rotor side.

Shingo
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 10:05 AM
  #12  
Chin's Avatar
Chin
Thread Starter
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: DC
Default

I know i need to put some anti-squeal on the brake pads. But, am i supposed to put glues on the side that contacts with rotors
Or the other metal side? Also, shall I bleed brake fluid too??
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 10:27 AM
  #13  
mrhonda_187's Avatar
mrhonda_187
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 351
Likes: 0
From: Niagara Falls, Canada.
Default

I'm doing mine tomorrow. Got the pads (front and rear) for around $60 cdn. ($40 USF. - Raybestos). Got the rotors (front and rear) for $300 cdn. ($190 USF - Raybestos). I work for a N/A parts mfr. so I get a 'little' discount at a local parts shop.

I've done brake work before, so I'm going to try this myself. This is from a Prelude site, but I'm assuming the Integra is similar (no I don't have a Helms yet): http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fourth-brakes/index.shtml

I'm renting the special tool from Partsource (but I'd imagine NAPA or Pep Boys, etc... would have it).

Instructions on 'where to put the goop' is on the bottle. I believe it's only on (the metal side of) the inboard pad.

During this process I'm not opening any brake lines so I don't think bleeding is necessary.
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 10:33 AM
  #14  
Shingoblade-GSR's Avatar
Shingoblade-GSR
Hellsing Agency
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,561
Likes: 0
Default

Originally posted by Chin
I know i need to put some anti-squeal on the brake pads. But, am i supposed to put glues on the side that contacts with rotors
Or the other metal side? Also, shall I bleed brake fluid too??
The other metal side (contacts the caliper or whatnot).

I'm actually due to replace my pads pretty soon; I'm going to cop out and have a shop do all the work and replace the lines as well. I'll let you know how much it costs me.

Shingo

ps. If someone can recommend a safe/legal bedding process that would be great
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 10:41 AM
  #15  
mrhonda_187's Avatar
mrhonda_187
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 351
Likes: 0
From: Niagara Falls, Canada.
Default

Not to display my ignorance, but I had to do a search to find out what 'bedding' meant... anywhoo:

http://www.netcube.net/viper/padbed.htm
http://www.gracieland.org/cars/techtalk/bedin.html
http://www.precisionbrakes.com/wilwood_pad_bedding.html

And there's more. I'll read through those... come in handy after I change everything. Thanks for the thought Shingo, I'd never really thought about that before.
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 11:01 AM
  #16  
reno96teg's Avatar
reno96teg
Moderator
 
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 21,573
Likes: 0
Default

Originally posted by mrhonda_187
During this process I'm not opening any brake lines so I don't think bleeding is necessary.
you should always bleed the lines.. it's not hard anyway. if not to get air out, you'll want to bleed the "dirty" brake fluid out.

depending on the amount of time since the last bleeding, you'll probably get brown fluid out during a bleeding. brake fluid turns brown as it absorbs moisture (it's designed to do this). you always want to have clean fluid in your system. bleeding helps insure this.
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 12:09 PM
  #17  
diskostew's Avatar
diskostew
DiskoStew don't advertise
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Lakewood CA
Default

Originally posted by reno96teg
you should always bleed the lines.. it's not hard anyway. if not to get air out, you'll want to bleed the "dirty" brake fluid out.

depending on the amount of time since the last bleeding, you'll probably get brown fluid out during a bleeding. brake fluid turns brown as it absorbs moisture (it's designed to do this). you always want to have clean fluid in your system. bleeding helps insure this.
Do yourself a favor and go buy some speed bleeders. They are pretty cheep and then you won't have to depend on your buddy to come over and pump the brakes for you. I put some speed bleeders in when I put on my steel braided lines, and it was way easy to bleed the whole system! I won't do brakes without them again!!!:thumbup:
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 01:09 PM
  #18  
thx247's Avatar
thx247
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
Default

i thought this thread said how much for a blow job...oh well
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 06:36 PM
  #19  
Chin's Avatar
Chin
Thread Starter
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: DC
Default

Wow! you guys are great! So much information .... I got things to study this weekend ) BTW, if I only change front rotors, can i bleed all fluids out? Or the rear brake line has to be off too? Things seem getting complicated :<
Reply
Old Jan 24, 2003 | 06:57 PM
  #20  
diskostew's Avatar
diskostew
DiskoStew don't advertise
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Lakewood CA
Default

You should bleed all 4...
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:49 PM.