With todays modern transmissions you do not need to let the clutch out in neutral to rev match. You can hold the clutch in while doing it.

With almost any race car though you need to let the clutch out when you blip the throttle because most race cars do not have syncro's, but instead straight or helical cut gears.

 

Ok good , glad to know I'm doing it right. Thanks

 

Chrgsr96 - i live in west chester, how about you?

oh yeah, and you shouldn't need to double clutch

 

When the motor's not running you should be able to shift the gears with no trouble.

When you got the clutch installed did that include new pilot and throwout bearings, and a refill of the clutch hydraulic system? You could be low on fluid, or there might be air in the system, or one of your bearings might be shot.

And for those who are wondering, here is the process for double clutching a downshift:

- press clutch pedal
- shift into neutral
- let go of clutch
- blip throttle
- press clutch
- shift into lower gear
- let out clutch
- get back on gas

No point doing it on a public road, on a racetrack combined with heel-n-toeing you can downshift while braking without upsetting the balance before the turn you're braking for.

 

Ok thanks. I just kind of tried to double clutch one day untill I was able to do it right which wasn't too difficult and then I got into the habit of doing it every time I down shifted. I'll try to not do it much anymore unless I'm making a downshift to a decently high rpm.

Kfar09- I live in Landen which is pretty close to Kings Island if you don't know where Landen is.

 

Double clutching is not neccesary unless you:

- drive an 18-wheeler (or some other truck) without the luxury of synchromesh gears
- are a race car driver
- are _very_ good at double clutching and want to make your transmission and clutch last forever

DC'ing can wear out the friction material faster than if you simply apply some throttle and perform a smooth and quick release of the clutch.

 

Well I think thats what I do. I just give a little throttle when downshifting to make the downshift a smooth one.

 

That's not a double clutched downshift. Read the whole process I posted. You have to actually get on and off the pedal twice, that's what makes it "double."

 

One thing I must mention is that it's perfectly fine to practice heel-toe-downshifting whenever possible, including on the street. I got extremely comfortable doing both versions of downshift rev-matching above (with double clutching and without) long before I did a single track day or autocross event. None of those guys learned the technique just from going to those events.

While it's overkill for public roads (and sometimes scares the other ppl on the road) it's a pretty useful technique to have in case you decide to do HPDE's and whatnot later on.

Shingo

ps. If I'm not mistaken, I believe double-clutching when you're revmatching downshifts (versus revmatching while the clutch is still in) puts slightly less wear on the clutch for the sole reason that you aren't applying throttle when the clutch is in. Correct me if I'm wrong...

 

The main thing it saves is the syncros.

If you're good at matching revs, you can actually upshift without using a clutch. Works better on a dog-engagement race box but can still be done with syncromesh.

On the original issue, it sounds like some kind of issue in the clutch hydraulic system.