lol sorry about the sig.... hope this is a lil better... i might just take it all down and change....:thumbup:

 

No problem, thanks. :thumbup:

 

ok so i'm still a tad bit confused... sorry i know this is dragging out... but say i get the crv pulley but no hondata, do i go with the 310cc or 440cc?

 

310's would be fine. You'll also need a Cartech RR FMU and plenty of bandaids, Im sure. Map Mod, BTC, AFC, etc. In the end, I just went Hondata.

You should also check out Zip's SMC. Its not bad for the price, and it would cut down on your cost of other bandaids.

 

The cost of the various bandaids is gong to be more than a basic Hondata setup with the boost option.

 

so basically it's cheaper to go with a hondata and skip all the other stuff?

 

Actually, Mike, it does lower the charge temp on turbo applications. I say turbo applications because I dont know if the water has enough time to do its thing with the nozzle post-blower on a JRSC. Spraying that close you're really going to be soaking up cylinder temps, not charge temps.



Honestly, I cant predict what gains you'll see on a JRSC system, because you are limited to that one nozzle (unless you dont mind getting new screws every year or so. ). A nozzle far enough away from the blower not to do any damage is likely to not provide any gains simply because the air at that point is ambient temp. So unless you have your water in a 12V fridge or something, it isn't going to do anythin but saturate the air with noncombustables.

The aquamist system is rather expensive, but you can piecemeal yourself a kit for much less. ($200 or so) Instead of using their system to map water, I would suggest a boost activated system. On a JRSC, you could have a switch activate the solenoid at say... 5 pounds.

 

where can i get this boost activated system?? right from JR?

 

You could, but as with all of their other products it is just an overpriced rebadge of someone else's product.


Here is who makes what they sell:
www.aquamist.co.uk

 

It all depends on tuning. You can expect to pay:
$500 S200B
$50 DSM Injectors
$5 Resistors
$150 Injector/Hondata Install
$60+/hr partial throttle street tuning (different than dyno)
$175+/hr dynotuning, minimum 2hrs

And thats conservative....any standalone is expensive. Tuning, unless you do it yourself, is expensive. You pay for the dyno and pay for the tuner.

Compare that to:

Cartech FMU - $200
SMC - $125(?)/AFC - $300
BTC/Map Mod - $300/$175
310's - $200
Tuning time...I dont even know how long, but it wont be nearly as accurate. Like I said...with Hondata you may pay a bit more, but for the end result, its worth it....I did it...my wallet hurts, and has a lot more hurtin to go, but Im still alive on 6PSI for 20k and 11PSI for 5+k now....Im knockin on wood though, every day