jrsc not good in ohio??
if i'm only gonna do 8psi... is the hondata really necessary? i already have a vafc. all that i'd have to get then is the pulley upgrade... i'm gonna go with rc440cc injectors, and a new fuel pump... probably walbro gss317 255lph, oh yeah and some energy suspenion motor mounts and a new head gasket. lol out of all that i just typed my simple question is still, need a hondata even though i have a vafc?
What fuel pump are you running now?
For my boost upgrade, the setup is:
3" Short Ram
Kamikaze 2.5" Header
Carsound 2.5"in/out Cat
Thermal 2.5"
Endyn/MVM Stepper Pulley
Walbro GSS317 (Hondata can use stock pump)
DSM 450's w/resistors
Hondata S200B
Never mind more **** on top of it, like a clutch/flywheel, etc...
Its expensive...if youre doing it, do it right so it lasts.
For my boost upgrade, the setup is:
3" Short Ram
Kamikaze 2.5" Header
Carsound 2.5"in/out Cat
Thermal 2.5"
Endyn/MVM Stepper Pulley
Walbro GSS317 (Hondata can use stock pump)
DSM 450's w/resistors
Hondata S200B
Never mind more **** on top of it, like a clutch/flywheel, etc...
Its expensive...if youre doing it, do it right so it lasts.
If you have a V-AFC you can set it to -40% trim across the board and the 440cc injectors will run decently enough to drive the car to a dyno for tuning. You don't need a Hondata, it'll just be more precise.
Yeah.
If you dial back the fuel with the V-AFC essentially what you're doing is reducing the MAP sensor voltage. The ECU doesn't think it's seeing boost so you don't need a check valve. Basically the V-AFC works as an electronic "bleeder valve" so the ECU thinks less air is going into the motor. But since your injectors are also multiplying the fuel signal sent out by the ECU, you essentially get a boost-responsive fuel curve.
It's not as precise as a Hondata because it doesn't allow as fine of an adjustment, but it'll work and if you've already got it you don't necessarily have to spend more money.
Just remember, get the higher flow-rate injectors and set the V-AFC to -40% across the board for a baseline calibration.
If you dial back the fuel with the V-AFC essentially what you're doing is reducing the MAP sensor voltage. The ECU doesn't think it's seeing boost so you don't need a check valve. Basically the V-AFC works as an electronic "bleeder valve" so the ECU thinks less air is going into the motor. But since your injectors are also multiplying the fuel signal sent out by the ECU, you essentially get a boost-responsive fuel curve.
It's not as precise as a Hondata because it doesn't allow as fine of an adjustment, but it'll work and if you've already got it you don't necessarily have to spend more money.
Just remember, get the higher flow-rate injectors and set the V-AFC to -40% across the board for a baseline calibration.
sweet... thats what i didn't wanna have to do is sell somethin i bought less than a year ago. thanks alot for all the help guys. newgsrdriver.... where'd you get your stepper pulley's and are they makin 8psi or higher??
The only problem is, to run 8PSI, youll need the injectors and a Cartech FMU on top of the AFC. As well as the fuel pump, and I would recommend a GSS-342 over the 317.
It just seems worth it to me going with Hondata, especially since JRSC's are so finnicky with modifications...tuning is KEY.
Contact wheelking@webtv.net for his MVM Pulley...the guys name is Jim Helibing. Tell him Newgsrdriver from Hostboard sent you. I believe you should see ~9PSI. Mine is going on my dyno day...right now Im running 11PSI, and everything is going to be swapped on before we hit the dyno.
It just seems worth it to me going with Hondata, especially since JRSC's are so finnicky with modifications...tuning is KEY.
Contact wheelking@webtv.net for his MVM Pulley...the guys name is Jim Helibing. Tell him Newgsrdriver from Hostboard sent you. I believe you should see ~9PSI. Mine is going on my dyno day...right now Im running 11PSI, and everything is going to be swapped on before we hit the dyno.



Good luck!