My GSR NA Rebuild
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 0
From: Texas
In response to your question about compression, that should be completely safe in the hands of a good tuner.
I have no first hand experience with thin head gaskets, I've always tried to stay OEM in that dept.
Personally, I would explore all other possible options to raise compression, and use a 2 layer as a last resort. You can use flat faced valves, slightly mill the head, block, or both. Hell, a resurface might give you the bump your looking for.
Take more pics and post them as it comes together! I'm kicking myself for not documenting my build better, would have saved a lot of headaches.
I have no first hand experience with thin head gaskets, I've always tried to stay OEM in that dept.
Personally, I would explore all other possible options to raise compression, and use a 2 layer as a last resort. You can use flat faced valves, slightly mill the head, block, or both. Hell, a resurface might give you the bump your looking for.
Take more pics and post them as it comes together! I'm kicking myself for not documenting my build better, would have saved a lot of headaches.
Thread Starter
*************
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 453
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Here is my 64mm GSR throttle body I received from Maxbore.com next to a stock GSR TB. Turnaround time was 2 weeks from Florida to SoCal. I like all these modifications because my engine bay will still look completely stock.
Thread Starter
*************
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 453
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Well, I finally restarted the project after 1 year and here are some progress pictures (I hate having to stop to take a picture, so they're not great):
Doing all the work in my garage straight from the Helms.
Just installed ARP head studs, OEM headgasket, cylinder head & CTR camshafts. Along with about 20 or 30 oem parts that the Helms tells you to replace:
This was just after I finished doing my timing belt and valve adjustment with this great $17 tool:
New 96+ timimg belt lower cover for the ITR oil pump attached to Spoon oil pan, new valve cover gasket set along with almost all new Honda bolts. New oem crank pulley will be installed soon:
New BDL billet cam seal, and removed the VTEC solenoid to replace the filter.
Doing all the work in my garage straight from the Helms.
Just installed ARP head studs, OEM headgasket, cylinder head & CTR camshafts. Along with about 20 or 30 oem parts that the Helms tells you to replace:
This was just after I finished doing my timing belt and valve adjustment with this great $17 tool:
New 96+ timimg belt lower cover for the ITR oil pump attached to Spoon oil pan, new valve cover gasket set along with almost all new Honda bolts. New oem crank pulley will be installed soon:
New BDL billet cam seal, and removed the VTEC solenoid to replace the filter.
F#%K JDM, USDM FTW
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Garage kept in Florida
Nice build.. I will be doing a similar build. But I'll be using a set of agressive cams, ITR LMA's, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, a fully ported head, shaved head for bumped compression, etc.
As for tuning, I would reccomend getting an OBD1 ECU chipped, and have a tuner street and dyno tune it. It will be cheaper than that crap Hondata. Neptune, eCtune, and Neptune RTP is great.
As for tuning, I would reccomend getting an OBD1 ECU chipped, and have a tuner street and dyno tune it. It will be cheaper than that crap Hondata. Neptune, eCtune, and Neptune RTP is great.
Thread Starter
*************
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 453
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Thanks guys. The head received a basic port & polish as well as the intake manifold. This will be tuned by one of the best tuners in the country, Church Engineering.
They recommend I use Hondata S100, so I wont question them.
They recommend I use Hondata S100, so I wont question them.
