this is my planned LS/Vtec setup and im just checking if everything looks good and if i am missing anything? the more imputs the better

Block:
B18a bored to 84.5 or 85 (does the .5 inch really make that much of a difference or should i save some moeny)
sleeved with Golden Eagle
Eagle rods or Crower Commuiting rods (depends on the price)
JE 12.5/13 pistions
Z10 girdle

Head:
B18c(?) (agian depends on the price)
w/ water pump, oil pump and timing belt (should i go aftermarket with the timing belt or stick with oem)
ARP head studs
(will it hurt if i dont upgrade the cams)

Tranny:
GSR or Type R
Quaife LSD
JDM finial drive (is it worth the money to do this)
(should i upgrade my clutch or wait until my stock one wears out)

Fuel setup:
RC 310cc injectors
Holley 255 pump
asjustable FPR w/ gauge

ECU:
i really dont know i was thinking
P28 w/ Hondata (is this the best choice)

Exaust:
2.75" RS*R ExMag cat back exhaust

Intake:
AEM Cold air

Header:
DC 4:1

Everything else:
new rod and main bearings.
new head gasket, Oil pan gasket, rear main seal, Oil return gasket, oil filter
Thrust washers
fittings for running the external oil line
get entire rotating assembly balanced


as of this point i dont know if i am going N/A or FI

also does anyone have a pretty good guess of what kind of hp i will be getting i was thinking around 190 but not really that sure.

 

first off id decide if your serious about a FI setup down the road because with 12.5 pistons ur gonna have to have a hell of a tune to prevent detonation.
secondly thats 84.5 mm not inches just so you know

id just stick with the oem timing belt no need to go anything fancy on this build. your not going to be pushing the horsepower that would require a special belt

and if your asking are the stock cams from a b18c going to hurt you, no. if your asking will upgrading the bolts and not the cams hurt you, no

i dont see any reason to waste the money on a different final drive if your already dropping a complete tranny in.

if your going to be puttin a whole new trans and lsd in then i wouldnt think twice about puttin a new clutch in...even a stock one would be a good idea. awfully silly to put a brand new trans in and reuse the old clutch.

thats just what i think about some of this

 

thanks for your input and yes i know it was mm i just had a big brain fart

about the FI the thing is after i do all this i wont have any money to dump into my car so my thought is if i can save money and wait until i have money agian i would go FI but if i couldnt wait i would slowly start building a N/A system

what size pistons would you recamend for FI?

 

well size isnt so much an issue as the compression you want to run...i assume you were saying those pistons were a 12.5 to 1. it is feasible to use those on a FI setup but its going to take a good management program and a awesome tuner to make sure you can run that safetly. my recommendation if your going to go FI and are goign to replace the pistons is to run something like 9 to 1 or even the stock ratio. both of these allow for very easy tuning and a larger margin of error on that tune. but again you have to decide for sure if your going to run a turbo later on or not then u could decide what compression to shoot for

 

i was hope for 11 to 1 but if i do go FI it will be at least one maybe 2 years after i finish this

also i do live in SC which means there really arent any really really good dyno (that i know of)

 

assuming this is an all motor setup here are my 2 yen

Block:
B18a bored to 84.5 or 85 (does the .5 inch really make that much of a difference or should i save some moeny)-leaving it at 84mm gives you room to overbore later on if the cylinders get warped, but 85mm will give you more hp and torque

sleeved with Golden Eagle-good choice

Eagle rods or Crower Commuiting rods (depends on the price)-eagle and crower econo billets are practically the same

JE 12.5/13 pistions-this is dependent on what octane you have at the pumps near you and how good your tuner is

Z10 girdle-not necessary, just have your bottom end balanced and put together correctly

Head:
B18c(?) (agian depends on the price)-personal choice what you go with

w/ water pump, oil pump and timing belt (should i go aftermarket with the timing belt or stick with oem)-oem on all this

ARP head studs-ok

(will it hurt if i dont upgrade the cams)-if you want to make power the stock cams will hold you back

Tranny:
GSR or Type R-get a b16 as a cheap alternative

Quaife LSD-oem itr as another cheap alternative that gets the job done

JDM finial drive (is it worth the money to do this)-the shorter 4.7 itr final drive will give you better acceleration than the stock 4.4, why not go with a 4.9? :rick: depends on if you can handle the higher rpm's on the freeway.

(should i upgrade my clutch or wait until my stock one wears out)-definitely upgrade the clutch while you have everything apart. think about a lighter flywheel while you're at it.

Fuel setup:
RC 310cc injectors-fine
Holley 255 pump-stock is fine
asjustable FPR w/ gauge-fine

ECU:
i really dont know i was thinking
P28 w/ Hondata (is this the best choice)-there are many other ems' available. see what your tuner is most comfortable and familiar with.

Exaust:
2.75" RS*R ExMag cat back exhaust-rsr doesnt make an exhaust this big as far as i know. 2.5" is more than adequate.

Intake:
AEM Cold air-fine

Header:
DC 4:1-you want something with at least a 2.5" collector if you want to make lots of power. smsp, hytech, rmf, an-r, all good choices but all very $$$

 

thanks for your input snoopy i think ill go with a 84 bore but i do have 2 questions

a. how high will my RPMs get with the different lengths in the finial drive?
and
b. 91 octane would be the highest i prefer so i should stick with 12.5 based on this or what am i looking at here?

i guess i dont fully understand why the octane makes that much of a difference.