Hey guys I got my car tuned after installing turbo running 8psi. The last number I shot you off of my uego were bad and it was running rich under boost and at idle and at acceleration. Now I took it back and watch the shop tune the car again. My car is very stuborn to tune apparently we were trying to get a happy medium and it didnt work. Now here are the new numbers.

at idle it still wont sit still at 14.7 but it starts and hits 16.5 then after warming up it will stay close to the 14.7 area then slowly drop to 11.5 and then the ecu picks it up and it kicks back up to around 15 it does this over and over. from 10 to 20 in vacuum it will show a 16.5 to 18.0 and sometimes even - - - which means that is as lean as the gauge will run. around 10 to 0 vacuum it will be around 13.7 to the 14.7 range. and Under boost is runs 11.5-11.7 all day. I know this is alot closer than last time now I think its a little lean in the 10 to 20 vacuum range. At those points it will actually bog down and takes it a minute to get gas and go and most of the time it has been accompanied by a check engine light. I assume that the check engine light threw because it ran lean. He said he could burn me a chip and mail it to me if I find some bad spots in the tune. So i figure I should have him add a little more gas in the 10 to 20 vac range. What do you guys think? Please let me know. And what does it do when the car runs lean in 10 to 20 vacuum? Will it do major damage? How urgent is it to fix it? SHould I park it or what?

 

Also when I kick the air conditioner on the whole idle at 14.7 is out the door it idles like around 11.7? DOes this just prove that a car does indeed use more gas when running air conditioner? WHen I turn it off it will go to around 14.7 area. And how hard is it to fix the ticking from the valves or lifters. Someone said they can be tightend down. Is this true if so how hard is it to do? Or how much usually to get someone to do it?

 

since i know this is going to be the first question i might as well ask it so shmoo has more ot work with later--

what kind of fuel management?

 

Hondata S100 I made a posting about 2 weeks ago and have had it tuned again since then. He said I can just let him know where to add and take out fuel and he will burn me a new chip for my ecu.

 

Either your tuner is incompetent or you have a huge problem somewhere. All tuning should be done when the car is at full operating temperature and at a consistent water temperature. Messing with the idle fuel when cold is a bad idea because the car should be around 13.5:1 when warming up and then stabilize at around 14.7:1. The idle fluctuation may be due to different valued cells that the idle bounces in between during idle. One sounds rich and one sounds lean.

I'll bet that it feels like a total limp dick driving around in partial throttle because it is running so lean. Is your tuner using your UEGO to tune, or his own wideband? If he has one available, use his and see if there is any descrepancy. From 10-20 in/hg vacuum, it should be around 13.5:1.

I really dispise the Hondata S100 because there is no rom editor available, so you are at the mercy of your tuner. In this case, it sounds like he has no clue what he is doing. Is it possible to take it anywhere else?

You might want to consider switching to something you can tune yourself since you already have a wideband and learn how to do some street tuning. If he can't get the fuel maps right, I can't imagine how fucked up your car will get when he thinks he can modify the ignition maps.