i have permatex grey(the hondabond equivilant) so i will throw on a smidge of a bead on the gasket before i lay it ontop of the pan so it wont move around when i put it back on. sounds like the only hard part is gonna be manuevering my jdm 4-1 itr header out of the way.

 

You may have to remove the header completely.

I know I had to remove my downpipe, but luckily, it was only three bolts that were accessable from underneath the car.

 

i just finished replacing the gasket on my oil pan today, and it was pretty easy except for the flywheel dust cover. a bitch to take off, and putting it on wasn't easy either. after everything was done, car was on the ground, i start it, and hear a horrible sound that doesn't go away. I think something didn't go right, and i just wanna give up and go home. it sounds like a bad metal on metal griding sound. Thought it was my engine, but i put in the right amount of oil. I take off the flywheel dust cover, and turns out all my bending it, it was rubbing the flywheel. Noise gone, and drove it home. Gonna check for leaks in the next couple days.

Taking the old gasket off was hard, and so was getting the pan off, had a good suction onto the mating surface on the block. Plus laying on your back for like 3-4 hours and straining your neck, ughhh, off to bed, will comment more later.

 

Good to hear that you had a successful attempt at it. I remember the first time I replaced it, I had a hard time like you did. Since then, I have had to drop my oil pan 3 times, so I am used to it.

 

i checked my haynes manual, nowhere in there does it give a tightening sequence for the oil pan, does it just not matter as much? and what is the ft lbs for the bolts? i didnt see it but i may have just skipped over it

 

There's no specified tightening sequence, but the torque spec is 10 lb-ft.

 

does the oil pan in these cars really see THAT much pressure to need anything more than a solid tightening with the appropriate sized ratched socket wrench thingy? Unless your crankcase pressure ventilating system gets clogged then you should need anything more then a giving it a good tightening. am i wrong?

 

The problem is that you don't want to OVER tighten it, and break one of the bolts/studs off in the bottom of the block.

 

I did an oil pan gasket once on my 89. It was not something I enjoyed and I don't think I would do it again. My 99 has a class 1 leak right now (visual seapage) that is gonna need a replacing. My mechanic that does my oil changes will do it for 2 bills parts and labor. Knowing how I hated the fuck out of it the first time, I'll probably pay it since there is nothing for me to learn from it. That's just me though. I do about 85% of the work on my car. When it comes to fluids and exchanges or repairs that involve fluids I usually have someone else do it. I still have oil in my garage from a change I did about 3 yrs. ago. Like I said, I just don't like dealing w/fluids. I'll pay someone else to handle that mess.

 

You live near me, why not just come over to my place and I will do it for $50 plus the $20 gasket and save you $130. It isn't hard at all and I have all the tools and I have pulled my oil pan off 5 times now, so I think I am pretty familiar with the routine.