How much power can I/H/E generate on the LS B18B1?
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lots and lots of fail
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 23,004
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From: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
Just asking for a friend...and I'm wondering myself now.
How many horsies and foot lbs can I/H/E get? Is it even worth doing? Is one component of that not worth it?
Also, would other simplish mods be more beneficial? Like cams or gears? Or stickers?
Thanks guys...
How many horsies and foot lbs can I/H/E get? Is it even worth doing? Is one component of that not worth it?
Also, would other simplish mods be more beneficial? Like cams or gears? Or stickers?
Thanks guys...
FYI the LS is the b18b1, the GSR is the b18c1.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Thread Starter
lots and lots of fail
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 23,004
Likes: 1
From: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
1 stupid post and 1 helpful post but not what I was looking for. He doesn't want turbo because he doesn't wanna **** up his engine. If he did I woulda asked "how much power can a turbo'd LS make".
Thanks dubster, for some reason I was thinking the GS-R was B18C3
Anyone have a response for me?
Thanks dubster, for some reason I was thinking the GS-R was B18C3

Anyone have a response for me?
You'd get more than a 3-5 whp gain. Granted the increase won't be significant, it will be higher than 5 whp.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
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If he's not gonna turbo, I/H/E is a good place to start.
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Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Originally posted by Taiwanze7
I/H/E has maybe 3-5whp gain... I think most honda's are pretty well tuned as is, so I/H/E won't make much of a difference....though some pple will swear it does 15-20whp
I/H/E has maybe 3-5whp gain... I think most honda's are pretty well tuned as is, so I/H/E won't make much of a difference....though some pple will swear it does 15-20whp
Don't pretend to be an expert on something when you clearly don't know what you are talking about.
I have a LS with just I/H/E and my last dyno run rated it at 126.4 whp and 117.6 wtq. For comparison, b18cya's GS-R with I/E put down 134 whp and 107 wtq just before mine was run. So that's 10 wtq I have over him and his numbers should be a little above stock. For those of you wondering why I'm comparing a LS to a GS-R, it's because they put down almost the same peak torque stock. At the crank, the GS-R only has 1 or 2 ft-lbs more, but 30 more hp due to the higher redline.
I'm not going to bother talking about the horsepower gains because torque and rpm are the only things the dyno measures. Most people talk about horsepower all day long but have no clue that it's just calculated based on torque and rpm in an attempt to account for the advantage of high reving engines.
As for real world performance, I'm beating cars that run mid 15's at sea level. I have a generic 3-inch diameter short ram intake, DC 4-2-1 2-piece header, stock cat, and a Type-R cat back (2.25" diameter). All the morons will say my intake and exhaust need to be some aftermarket brand name for them to do any good, but I have two dyno sheets that prove that those people are full of sh!t. I did my homework, so I knew where I could save money and where I shouldn't, and now I'm outperforming all the morons that tried to tell me what I needed to buy.
I swear, the amount of BS being spread about performance parts is ridiculous. If you don't understand the physics behind something, don't fvcking talk to people like you do.
Originally posted by 02RSXTYPES
OK so it's not even worth it then without other mods. Thanks guys.
OK so it's not even worth it then without other mods. Thanks guys.
The intake isn't a big deal and you can just go generic of DIY for that. I went with a 3-inch diameter generic short ram, it has one bend (mandrel, of course), and a silicon reducer to connect it to the throttle body. I have a theory as to why it works well for me, but I wont get into that right now, and like I alread said, it's not a big deal.
For the header, I have a DC 4-2-1 2-piece. I did my homework on the 4-2-1 vs 4-1 decision. But, admittedly, I chose a DC brand because it wasn't too expensive and a lot of people seem to think they're great.
My exhaust is a Type-R cat-back. I chose it because it's bigger diameter than stock, but not too big, and it flows well (mandrel bends and a good muffler design). The idiots will argue with me all day about my exhaust vs aftermarket, but let's face it... Honda knows what the fvck they're doing better than some aftermarket company, so I'll gladly take something that they consider a performance exhaust for an Integra. I also saved a lot of money by getting this exhaust.
And my setup has been proven twice on a dyno now. No, it's not for everyone, but it's great if you want upper-mid range power (what LS cams seem to be good for) and you're not going to do many power adders other than I/H/E.


