:bs: :stupid:

Don't pretend to be an expert on something when you clearly don't know what you are talking about.

I have a LS with just I/H/E and my last dyno run rated it at 126.4 whp and 117.6 wtq. For comparison, b18cya's GS-R with I/E put down 134 whp and 107 wtq just before mine was run. So that's 10 wtq I have over him and his numbers should be a little above stock. For those of you wondering why I'm comparing a LS to a GS-R, it's because they put down almost the same peak torque stock. At the crank, the GS-R only has 1 or 2 ft-lbs more, but 30 more hp due to the higher redline.

I'm not going to bother talking about the horsepower gains because torque and rpm are the only things the dyno measures. Most people talk about horsepower all day long but have no clue that it's just calculated based on torque and rpm in an attempt to account for the advantage of high reving engines.

As for real world performance, I'm beating cars that run mid 15's at sea level. I have a generic 3-inch diameter short ram intake, DC 4-2-1 2-piece header, stock cat, and a Type-R cat back (2.25" diameter). All the morons will say my intake and exhaust need to be some aftermarket brand name for them to do any good, but I have two dyno sheets that prove that those people are full of sh!t. I did my homework, so I knew where I could save money and where I shouldn't, and now I'm outperforming all the morons that tried to tell me what I needed to buy.

I swear, the amount of BS being spread about performance parts is ridiculous. If you don't understand the physics behind something, don't fvcking talk to people like you do.