i think this quesion is asked too much. if i/h/e is all you are going to do or you are not going to mod the hell out of you car then go ahead. and you don't need brand name. buying brand name is just to brag that you have it. when it comes to intake you can always make a homemade one or just get it custom bent. as for the exhaust, you don't really need to purchase a full catback. just buying a quality muffler and having custom mandrel bent piping can be cheaper than a namebrand system. and the header...well...it's hard to get that part custom made, so you'd have to get a bolton. many people have dc's so i'd go with them. comptech is also good. in the end don't worry about what people think. just do whatever you want with your car because it's yours. some people start out with only i/h/e and say that's all they want to do. then they get bit by the performance bug and start going all out.

 

Don't G2's have B17's?

 

Thats the g2 GSR motor ^

 

I still don't quite understand why this thread is sooooooo long. Anyway, I'll throw my 2 cents in with as un-arguable a position as possible.

Observe.



Until 5700 or so RPM the i/h/e plot is dead even with the plot of the same motor with Crower 403's. 135 whp is about 15 more than stock. So yeah, those first 15 hp gained or so cost you a grand and then it's only 2 grand more to add another 70 ponies. But hey, those extra 15 hp aren't unnoticeable and you're still only paying $1000 instead of $3000. Basically it comes down to if you want to spend a grand and call it quits or if you want to go for huge power increases and spend three times as much.

Now let's keep it mature here people.

 

Not the most scientific measurement in the world, but its worth noting.

Me - 96 RS I/H/E & 94 GSR Rims
My friend - 95 LS E & 15" Konig Helliums

Both kept well care of, all tuned up, both in great running condition.

We went to the strip, with the same 60' time I was getting .3 - .4 better ET's than him (and he even had lighter rims than me).

That tells me that the I/H/E did something.

Did no one see the great header test?!?

http://www.automotiveperformanceengi...om/header.html

They found one header to gain 14whp and 10lbs/tq over stock on the ITR they tested. An LS probably won't see the same gains as an ITR, but its going to see some gains.

 

Thank you. This thread is so long because people are *****ing and whining and adding irrelevant info instead of answering the question.

IMO I would say it's worth it if it's worth .3-.4 seconds off a 1/4 mile time. Does anyone have more dynos or real world experience instead of bullshit and guesses?

 

C1 - GSR
C3 - Spoon Crate SiR-G [Spoon GSR]
C4? - European GSR
C5 - US spec Type R


...if that needed to be cleared up.

 

No, it really didn't, I coulda told you that. But thanks anyway.

 

Call me crazy, but if I'm gonna run 14 lbs of boost, I'm not gonna do it with some janky ass $500 turbo kit, and just throw on a hondata and go. If you don't tune that engine to get the a/f mixture just right, say goodbye to your motor.

 

Yah....the amount of misinformation in this thread when it comes to how easy an FI setup is to run is obviously being posted by people who havent put together or witnessed someone put together a decent turbo/sc/nos setup.

Slap on a 2B and run? Sure...it'll run, and thats about it. Thats why they call it a BASE map...so your car can start and make it to the dyno.

The argument is pretty ridiculous...if you can build a competent turbo setup on a B18B for $1k...by all means, go for it. You'll be shopping for months, pulling some strings, getting your uncle's buddy who owns a machine shop to fab some piping, making tons of trips to Home Depot, spending a week on the installation...and then you still wont have something in comparison to a ready-made kit. There is a reason these kits sell so well....take the parts included in them and add them up seperately...