started turbo up, bad sputtering
18 mm/hg of vaccuum is normal. At idle, I am around 22 mm/hg.
Integras don't have EGR.
Do you understand what I am saying when I say that the Map sensor wire needs to be cut, not spliced, with one wire on the blue box going to the Map sensor end and one going to the ECU end? The two wires should never touch.
The bypass should take the place of the steel coolant hose running from underneath the throttle body to the head. There is another thing connected to it that runs from the valve cover to the stock intake arm. The steel thing needs to be removed and the bypass hose should be run from underneath the throttle body to the head and another hose should be run from the valve cover to the nipple on the intake pipe that Greddy provides.
I wish I could be there and help you out because I know what is wrong, it is just hard to explain it to you.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
Integras don't have EGR.
Do you understand what I am saying when I say that the Map sensor wire needs to be cut, not spliced, with one wire on the blue box going to the Map sensor end and one going to the ECU end? The two wires should never touch.
The bypass should take the place of the steel coolant hose running from underneath the throttle body to the head. There is another thing connected to it that runs from the valve cover to the stock intake arm. The steel thing needs to be removed and the bypass hose should be run from underneath the throttle body to the head and another hose should be run from the valve cover to the nipple on the intake pipe that Greddy provides.
I wish I could be there and help you out because I know what is wrong, it is just hard to explain it to you.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
This is why Hondata > *.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Hondata doesn't have to be installed or tuned by a shop. Once you get your ECU back, it's plug and play. If you have a laptop, the rom editor, and a wideband O2, you can tune the car yourself. However, I would much rather have it tuned by a shop when boost is involved. Not having to cut/splice a ton of wires and having something tunable > *
__________________
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
shmoo, ur the best man, ur seriously my ****in idol. haha, shiiiet, my car starts now, i figured out the wiring thing thanks to u, (only helpful person on 3 forum sites). well right now it seems to smoke, i think it might be because of the kinked oil return line, so im gonna fix that. is there anything else i should look into before driving it?
oh when i rev my car to 3k then let go of the throttle, the car bogs down like 500 rpms from idle. choking the oil return line?
oh when i rev my car to 3k then let go of the throttle, the car bogs down like 500 rpms from idle. choking the oil return line?
No problem man. Glad I could help you out. Just fix the oil return line and take it for a drive.
To hook up your guage, you need to either replace the stock oil pressure sensor or use brass fittings to create another hole that you can screw the sensor into. The first idea sucks because your idiot light on the dash will be constantly on, so I would go to Home Depot and pick up some fittings to tee it off with.
To hook up your guage, you need to either replace the stock oil pressure sensor or use brass fittings to create another hole that you can screw the sensor into. The first idea sucks because your idiot light on the dash will be constantly on, so I would go to Home Depot and pick up some fittings to tee it off with.
Yeah, it should be the same thing that was tapped to connect the oil feed line.
I am assuming the vacuum you are talking about is for the boost guage:
As for getting the wires and such through the firewall, there is a rubber grommet with wires coming out of it right underneath the master cylinder that works quite well. Take the wires that you need to get through the firewall and tape them to a long screwdriver and punch them through the middle of the grommet from the outside. The tip of the screwdriver should be poking out underneath the fuse box by your clutch pedal. Then pull them through and connect them to your guages.
I am assuming the vacuum you are talking about is for the boost guage:
As for getting the wires and such through the firewall, there is a rubber grommet with wires coming out of it right underneath the master cylinder that works quite well. Take the wires that you need to get through the firewall and tape them to a long screwdriver and punch them through the middle of the grommet from the outside. The tip of the screwdriver should be poking out underneath the fuse box by your clutch pedal. Then pull them through and connect them to your guages.
Originally Posted by Master Yodub
Hondata doesn't have to be installed or tuned by a shop. Once you get your ECU back, it's plug and play. If you have a laptop, the rom editor, and a wideband O2, you can tune the car yourself. However, I would much rather have it tuned by a shop when boost is involved. Not having to cut/splice a ton of wires and having something tunable > *
Yes, hacking up the ECU harness sucks and I made it even worse by installing my E-manage. However, the blue box is great because you just splice it in and start the car and the preset curves are conservative and there is no check engine light. It is far superior to an FMU/check valve setup.


