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welp, my motor is burning oil :sigh:

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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 09:30 AM
  #11  
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replacing the cam seal wouldn't be a bad idea. after i replaced the cam seal on my old LS motor with a STR billet aluminum one, the block definitely looked cleaner
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Old Mar 21, 2005 | 09:34 AM
  #12  
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I was worried about this as well. My GS-R (bought 1/2 year ago) lost a lot of oil as well. I had no clue that B-series motors had this issue. It only has 82K miles and I was beginning to worry. I filled about 1 qt of oil before oil change but I also drove it kinda hard.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 06:58 AM
  #13  
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that is normal between a whole 3000 mile oil change if you drive it hard. 8-9 grand has a tendency to do that to at least my old motor!
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 07:10 AM
  #14  
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if it makes you feel better, i have 195 +- 2 psi compression across the board, cyls 1, 3, 4 have 7-8% leakdown, BUT cyl 2 has about 20% leakdown. thats where i'm assuming the burnt oil is going through, only thing left to think of is worn valve seals on cyl 2.

i burn 1 qt every 1200-1500 miles on a 115k mile motor, but its been burning this same amount since i noticed it around 50k miles, regardless if i drive hard or not.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 02:40 PM
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Okay joe, when u do the compression check do it both dry and wet. first u do it dry, take ur readings, and then do a wet test. Squirt oil in the spark plug hole( just a couple squirts), take readings on all four cylinders again and compare the readings. Ne cylinders that increase from the low cylinders are ur leakin cylinders. If all are good, refer to the owners manual on the readings. It could be possible valve seals or worn valve guides. check the crank case breather, and also check the pcv and make sure its working. U better stop revving your car so high, lol.
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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:08 PM
  #16  
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just remember that a wet test isnt always the most accurate way to determine poor ring seal. it might not be the case in our 4 cyl. engines but imagine in a v8 with the cylinders at an angle relative to the ground. the oil you squirt in there doesnt get spread over the entire ring set, only the lower portion due to gravity.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 07:28 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mikemerc85
Okay joe, when u do the compression check do it both dry and wet. first u do it dry, take ur readings, and then do a wet test. Squirt oil in the spark plug hole( just a couple squirts), take readings on all four cylinders again and compare the readings. Ne cylinders that increase from the low cylinders are ur leakin cylinders. If all are good, refer to the owners manual on the readings. It could be possible valve seals or worn valve guides. check the crank case breather, and also check the pcv and make sure its working. U better stop revving your car so high, lol.
i dont rev my car at all :rick: only when i need to get on the highway :exnbp:
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 09:30 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by JoePannone
i dont rev my car at all :rick: only when i need to get on the highway :exnbp:
regardless, the B-series motor has oil evap, and that evaporation is burned via the PCV system that moves that stuff into the combustion chamber.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 08:53 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by LT6916
regardless, the B-series motor has oil evap, and that evaporation is burned via the PCV system that moves that stuff into the combustion chamber.
Yeah, I have a catch can and you wouldn't believe the amount of oil that gets sucked through that system. Everytime you hit vtec, there is a rediculous amount of oil sucked into the engine and burned.
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