Hit the side of the camshaft cap. Alternate from side to side. Don't pound on the cap, just tap on it with vigor until it comes loose. And be careful not to hit it when it's really loose or it may go flying. :chuckles:

 

:werd:

The rubber mallet works wonders. And FYI, you don't need to loosen the locknuts on the lifters to remove the cams. Be careful when reinstalling the cam caps to not overtorque the bolts...they are very easy to snap.

 

I would use vice grips and just twist. J/K Rubber mallet gently tapped will knock them free. Just be patient, and keep the numbers in order.

 

Well said. Always torque to spec and in the correct order.

 

I was helping do a swap for a friend...he wasnt very mechanically inclined, so myself and 2 other people were doing it for him. It was a B20 swap, and he was using the head from his previous LS motor...so we were doing the headswap and about to get to the cam caps. The genius looks at the torque specs for the GSR in the helms...which is 20 ft-lbs instead of 7.2....can you say snappy?

 

Well, I finally got them off. I started gently, but it seemed to be having no effect. I gradually hit them harder and harder, until I started noticing a few little chunks of rubber coming off my mallet. I finally got a small block of wood, put the wood on the side of the caps, and hit the wood. It took some time, but I worked them all free. I hope I didn't cause any damage doing it that way, but they seem to look OK (to my un-trained eye). My book just said to "lift them off". Yeah, right!

Thanks for everyone's help - I couldn't have done it with out you all.

 

:werd:

I did the exact same thing.
Except in the haynes they list one spec for 8mm bolts and one for 6mm bolts. (i'm still not sure what what 8mm bolts they are talking about)

 

teh numbers are stamped on the caps