the pistons are oem/honda... what if the rods have some miles on em? that shoudlnt matter, should it? i have my 92 B18A1 with 120k on it.... im gonna use that block and crank, rods too if you think i will be okay.... how high can i rev though? i dont wanna have power that im not using.

so far, this is my parts list:

b18a block
b16a pistons
b16a head

 

well with plain ol' rods and arp rod bolts, I'd say 7800 is reasonable. If you get those rods shot-peened (which isn't too expensive), 8k should be fine. Keep in mind, you wont be revving it out to 8k every time, that would probably be bad. But if you drive reasonably, and flog it from time to time, that should be OK.

But of course, as with doing anything the factory didn't intend, there are no set limits... those numbers are what I've gathered from various crvtec/lsvtec peeps, but don't take them for the gospel truth. If you know you want to reliably flog a 8200-8500 redline all day, then you should consider going all-aftermarket.

 

i like to beat on my car from time to time but when the gas needle falls, i get pissed off and baby it.... so i dont know what i should do.... probably some research... not like im puttin this all together tomorrow or anything.

 

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...prddisplay.jsp

are the crank girdle, windage tray, oil screen, oil pump, pan etc here? of course i know about the pan and oil pump but the tray, screen, girdle? im tryin to get my stuff together here. i need the gs-r oil pan for this? how is it different than the b18b pan?

edit: im sending the $ for my pistons tomorrow.... picking the head up next week

 

For a stock B18A1 block, don't rev over 7k, ever. That's how you cause oil starvation and spun rod bearings, not a very good thing if you expect the engine to last.

Don't buy cams until you decide if you want turbo or N/A. Both are very different in their grinds, and if you settle on an inbetween, you'll make max power in neither.

$400 is a kiss-ass price for a PR3 head. I remember when hmotorsonline.com was selling complete B16A longblocks for $450 less then a year ago. Then again, I did sell a mostly stripped P72 head on ebay a couple years ago for $550...

Anyway, decide how you want to go first, then the good advice will follow. For N/A, you can probably go faster for the same price without a VTEC PR3 or P72 head. For turbo, keep the head you have.

 

Kai - i appreciate your help but you need to catch up

i decided to go with LS-VTEC

bought a head and pistons, now its on to the build. not buyin cams or anything else like that, just gonna build the motor with my b16a head and pistons, if i decide i want more power afterwards, ill worry about it then.
my current plan is to use stock rods shot peened, with ARP rod bolts like white-n-slow recommended to me, if you know that is a bad idea, please let me know so i can plan accordingly before i start gettin my hands dirty.

oil starvation is also why i was asking about oil pan, pump, etc.... i want to do this right the first time so i dont have to tear it all apart once its in the car to build it a 2nd time

 

one more thing, i dont mind paying 400 to a local guy for a head cuz i know where its been... if i found a swap for 450, i still wouldnt buy it for fear that i was either gettin ripped off or that the motor was in rough shape