Coolant Gage Malfunction / Check Engine
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Coolant Gage Malfunction / Check Engine
I have a 1994 Integra RS with the following problem:
Although my car performs very well, the check engine light comes on approximately after every 2 minutes that I drive off with the car. The check engine light won't come back on if I pull over to shut the engine, restart it, and drive off. This has been happening since I replaced the radiator about 6 months ago. (At that time, I over heated the engine by driving the car for 5 minutes without any coolant.) From this, I've also noticed that the coolant gage needle will slightly move at random.
Could someone help?
Although my car performs very well, the check engine light comes on approximately after every 2 minutes that I drive off with the car. The check engine light won't come back on if I pull over to shut the engine, restart it, and drive off. This has been happening since I replaced the radiator about 6 months ago. (At that time, I over heated the engine by driving the car for 5 minutes without any coolant.) From this, I've also noticed that the coolant gage needle will slightly move at random.
Could someone help?
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You can check the code with one of the most amazing tools ever: a metal paper clip.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php
http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php
#5
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MrFatbooty, I tried what you suggested and found the code to be 43.
Fuel Supply System defective or malfunctioning
Acura Integra RS 1994
Anyone, any suggestions on how to correct this? I need help...
Fuel Supply System defective or malfunctioning
Acura Integra RS 1994
Anyone, any suggestions on how to correct this? I need help...
#6
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The full name for code 43 is "problem in the heated oxygen sensor circuit or a problem in the fuel supply system." If the car is driving oddly then it's something in the fuel system, otherwise it's the oxygen sensor.
Do you have any of these problems?
- Engine won't start
- Difficult to start engine
- Rough idle
- Misfire or rough running
- Loss of power
- Frequent stalling while warming up
- Frequent stalling after warming up
If not, it's most likely a bad oxygen sensor. But that doesn't have anything to do with the radiator or the coolant gauge.
However before you go and start replacing things, you should reset the ECU and see if the CEL goes away. The process to reset the ECU is as follows:
1. With the engine cold, turn the key to the 'on' position and then turn of all accessories: stereo, vent fan, etc.; then turn the key back off.
2. Pull the fuse in the engine bay fuse box marked BACK UP for 15 seconds, then replace the fuse. If you don't have a fuse puller handy you can just pull the power cable off the battery.
3. Turn on the car and let it idle until it reaches operating temp, with all accessories off.
If after doing this the code goes away, no worries. The way the ECU works, it stores a code until it is cleared, even if the problem happened just one time months ago. If the code comes back, then you can worry about troubleshooting it.
Do you have any of these problems?
- Engine won't start
- Difficult to start engine
- Rough idle
- Misfire or rough running
- Loss of power
- Frequent stalling while warming up
- Frequent stalling after warming up
If not, it's most likely a bad oxygen sensor. But that doesn't have anything to do with the radiator or the coolant gauge.
However before you go and start replacing things, you should reset the ECU and see if the CEL goes away. The process to reset the ECU is as follows:
1. With the engine cold, turn the key to the 'on' position and then turn of all accessories: stereo, vent fan, etc.; then turn the key back off.
2. Pull the fuse in the engine bay fuse box marked BACK UP for 15 seconds, then replace the fuse. If you don't have a fuse puller handy you can just pull the power cable off the battery.
3. Turn on the car and let it idle until it reaches operating temp, with all accessories off.
If after doing this the code goes away, no worries. The way the ECU works, it stores a code until it is cleared, even if the problem happened just one time months ago. If the code comes back, then you can worry about troubleshooting it.
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Actually I do experince some of the problems you mentioned.
- Engine won't start (No)
- Difficult to start engine (At times)
- Rough idle (At times)
- Misfire or rough running (No)
- Loss of power (No)
- Frequent stalling while warming up (No)
- Frequent stalling after warming up (No)
I will try what you recommended....
Is there a code that indicates a coolant gauge malfunction....
- Engine won't start (No)
- Difficult to start engine (At times)
- Rough idle (At times)
- Misfire or rough running (No)
- Loss of power (No)
- Frequent stalling while warming up (No)
- Frequent stalling after warming up (No)
I will try what you recommended....
Is there a code that indicates a coolant gauge malfunction....
#8
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Those problems you mentioned usuall mean a gunked up fuel filter or injectors. How old is your fuel filter? It might need to be replaced. As for the injectors you can run a bottle of Red Line SI-1 injector cleaner in a tank of gas, assuming you have a reasonably ok filter.
#10
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Don't go and forget to check for a bad fuel pressure regulator. I believe in the helms it's the first or second step in the troubleshooting flowchart for that code.
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Barry WY
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02-13-2003 08:18 AM