hey! i was wondering if a V-AFC is the same thing as a hondata in terms of purpose? and if not, does the V-AFC work in addition to the hondata?

i also wanted to ask if Anyone heard about the Spoon 70? mm Type R throttle Body? Is it worth the mod? will i get much from in hooked to a AEM CAI?? if anyone knows, let me know! thanks alot all...

 

Hondata and VAFC are not even in the same league. The VAFC lets you adjust the cam crossover and add/subtract fuel at 500 rpm increments. The Hondata does that and a whole lot more (timing, larger injector compensation, drag launch, full throttle shift, etc.).

If you've got basic mods (i/h/e), a VAFC will do just fine. But if you have big cams, boost, or extensive engine work ... a Hondata (or other stand alone ECU) is the engine management you need.

From what I've read, the Spoon TB is not 70mm straight through. The opening is 70mm and it tapers to the stock ITR TB size (62mm ... I think). Someone else may be able to confirm this. HTH.

 

Thats true but even with cams I would still run a VAFC. For a FI car I would go with Hondata or any stand alone. If you have the money yeah Honda is the way to go.

 

The throttle body goes to 63mm(jdm)

 

I run Hondata all motor, admitedly, with extensive modding, but all in all, for the base Hondata at $245, you can't beat the deal.

Paul is right about the TB it goes down to a 63mm bore, but honestly, you could get your Tb tapered by a local machine shop for a fraction of the price...

Any way, Hondata is well worth it, but just keep in mind, you'll need to find someone locally that sells them in addition to tunning it as well, otherwise you're sol. You may wanna do your homework before looking into buying either, the more you know, the better decision you'll be able to make.

Good luck,
Aj

 

thanks for the help everyone, i appreciate all the help i can get for futur mods, although only next year while my car is stored will i play a bit with those things, for the moment im still satisfied with the stock ecu

 

Thats my point about Hondata being alot of money. Just to through a price out there Jotech Motorsports in Dallas will tune the Hondata for $500 so add that up. If you don't have any trust worthy tuners in the local area you will need to drive so add that trave money to the "base" hondata and your looking at alot of money. This is something someone new to the import tuning world should say away from till they have alot of engine mods and kinda knows whats going on....thats my whole point...but good luck either way.

 

I do agree about it being something that you should do for later on, it really is very involoving, and requires more than just the purchase of the unit, but the guys at Jotech must be talking about tunning the Hondata for boost as it does take quite a while. If you're using it for all motor most places charge about $300-$350 for tunning, which you're right is a bit exensive, but is worth it in the end. When you consider the drivability factor to it, in addition to being able to have full control of all your sensors, including being able to turn off both your o2's to take them out in order to run race gas, it just pays off in the long run.

Any way,
Later,
Aj

 

if i get my TB oversized, whats the size i should make it for it to be safe and assuming i want 370 cc injectors later on...

 

Well, TB size really isn't a safety issue, it's more a matter of how much air you can actually suck in, before you overwhelm your car, and it takes too long to fill the plenum. Most all motor cars with a couple of exceptions run between a 64-68mm, some being flared from a 70mm down to what ever size they were running previous. You really don't need anything larger than a 68mm unless you're really pushing some huge cams(Toda Spec-D), and lots of compression(16:1), and even then 68mm is really big.

As far as injectors go, you really should decide your size based on your mods, rather than basing your mods on your injector size, you'll get a lot further that way.

In any case, good luck,
Aj