Alright guys - thanks alot for the input, im going to look around a bit for front camber kits because I'm just not sure on what the outcome will be - if i need to correct the front camber then i will do so-

 

With a 2.5 inch drop you will probably want a camber kit. Although negative camber is good for handling, driving a straight line will be unsteady and possibly dangerous. Plus your tires will wear uneven (more wear on the inside edge) which will reduce the life of the tire because one side of the tread is taking all or most of the wear.

 

with proper and routine rotating of the tires, and given the fact that an alignment was done, having negative camber doesnt always mean uneven tire wear. i have about -1.5 in the rear and -1 in the front, my tires have been wearing perfecting normal.

its the toe setting that results in premature tire wear.

 

-1 isn't really that bad, it's pretty close to stock compared to a 2 inch drop (-2.12) or 2.5 inch drop (probalby around -3).

Yes, tires will wear out extremely fast with bad toe but even after alignment where toe is corrected, too much camber can still cause uneven and therefore quicker wear. It would depend on how much camber and how hard you drive your car because when you corner hard, the negative camber goes positive to the point that it's neutral. But basically yeah, if you have only a small drop with a small change in camber you may not notice a difference as long as you get an alignment and rotate tires (if rear is different than front).

 

On the subject of camber kits, I offer up a suggestion.

A lot of front camber kits are brackets that install in place of the front upper control arm bolts. They change their length which pulls the control arm closer or further to the body of the car and thereby changes the camber. The problem with these kits is a lot of stress is placed on the bracket thingies and they don't necessarily hold their setting. Some people have also reported the brackets banging up the body of the car.

A better solution is a replacement control arm which has and adjustable ball joint. The control arm stays in place and only the ball joint is moved to adjust the camber. King Motorsports and skunk2 make kits like this.

For the rear since there's no steering to make the suspension more complex, it's a simple enough matter of using longer bolts to attach the upper control arms to the body and then using washers to space the control arm further away from the body until you get the camber spec you want.