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Aiming at 170 WHP... suggestions?

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Old Nov 29, 2003 | 08:26 AM
  #11  
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Originally posted by Andy
Rip out your A/C and PS and get an AEM CAI and a good exhuast. Got me pretty damn close with a stock exhaust manifold and cat.
I was just going to say something about that. And I can contest to that chart. The hatch was fast as hell!
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Old Nov 29, 2003 | 03:57 PM
  #12  
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Originally posted by Diabolik
You gained like 15 whp by pulling out AC and PS? Is this a common gain? If it is, I can live without them both for 15 whp!

-Diabolik
I can't say for absolutely sure that pulling them gained me any extra power. I had a '92 CX with a '95 B18C1 motor and my CX never had A/C or PS so I never dyno'd the motor with them. I may have just had a strong engine to begin with, but all I had was the AEM CAI, Tanabe Racing Medallion and the stock exhuast manifold and cat. I had new plugs and a fresh fuel filter but no other aftermarket modifications (even stock Civic radiator and clutch/flywheel at the time).

That said, it was fun being faster, and I could totally live wihtout PS but I'm not sure I'd want to do without both on a daily driver. I have a '98 Civic EX I drive everyday so they hybrid was a weekend car but was driven a lot and was my daily driver when the '98 was in the shop for a few months. You get bigger biceps from pulling that wheel around when parking.
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Old Nov 29, 2003 | 04:18 PM
  #13  
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Originally posted by import-tooner
I was just going to say something about that. And I can contest to that chart. The hatch was fast as hell!
Ha ha. Did you ever find a buyer for that car? I know you put it up for sale but I haven't heard anything about it in a while. I'm assuming someone grabbed it up. Did I ever tell you I sold the smashed shell for $1250 to a local guy. I only paid $950 for it 3 years ago with a running (somewhat) motor. I sold it smashed in the front and motorless. I did have a complete GS-R brake setup, springs, ES bushings, GS-R steering rack, GS-R seats and an autometer tach though.
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Old Nov 30, 2003 | 06:58 PM
  #14  
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I don't think I can live without the comfort of A/C, and what about power steering? Wouldn't it make it less of a daily driver without it?

Ok.

So lets say I get the cams and the Hondata installed, do I need to dyno the car twice for the cams and the hondata? or can they both be done at the same time?
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Old Dec 1, 2003 | 03:41 PM
  #15  
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get the cams and hondata tuned at the same time and save money
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Old Dec 1, 2003 | 08:53 PM
  #16  
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A typical GSR with bolt ons (intake, header, exhaust) will put down about 155 whp. So yes you will need to go with more than that.

What I would do is get whatever intake you want, a skunk2 intake manifold, skunk2 Stage 1 cams, upgraded valve springs and retainers, adjustable cam gears, a DC JDM 4-1 header (w/ 2.5" collector), 2.5" Carsound cat, and a custom 2.5" exhaust system with the muffler of your choice (with a 2.5" inlet of course).

One thing no one has mentioned yet is that since your car is a '98 you will have to convert to an OBD-I ECU to run a Hondata. Depending on local laws this may render your car non street legal. An A'PEXi V-AFC combined with the adjustable cam gears will give you enough tuning flexibility to dial it in on a dyno.
Originally posted by forum95
I would not go with the crower cams, my resources tell me they break, I'd rather go with the ITR cams and swap/change the valve's/springs
That only happened with the first batch of Crower cams that came out like three or four years ago. The issues have since been resolved.

Still, Crower VTEC cams don't make as much power as skunk2. They do make really good non-VTEC cams though.
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Old Dec 2, 2003 | 08:23 PM
  #17  
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you all need to look at some articles on team-integra.net mike delaney got some awsome articles there on all motor setups he is the reason i decided to go all motor in my gsr
170whp is very easy to get you dont need to swap cams ... a set of adjustable cam gears and bolt on`s will put you past 170 with some tuning with cams a little bump in compression and a 2.5" exhaust and a 4-1 header with 2.5" collect on it with tuning would put you up around 200whp and by the way its not all about the peak hp you could have 200whp but it could be peaky and end up with a power band that only last a 1000 rpm or so so a 165-170whp car with good tuning and a flat tourqe curve and a consistant hp curve will be faster
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 12:45 AM
  #18  
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my friends gsr pulled 185 hp and 129 lbft when he got it tuned he had skunk 2 im, dc 4-2-1 header(2 piece) aem sri, skunk 2 stage 1 cams, skunk2 cam gears, tanabe srm exhaust, hi flow cat, vafc.
we don't know what it would've run though cause after he broke in the clutch he totaled th car.
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 10:43 AM
  #19  
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Originally posted by spooncivicb16b
my friends gsr pulled 185 hp and 129 lbft when he got it tuned he had skunk 2 im, dc 4-2-1 header(2 piece) aem sri, skunk 2 stage 1 cams, skunk2 cam gears, tanabe srm exhaust, hi flow cat, vafc.
we don't know what it would've run though cause after he broke in the clutch he totaled th car.
Your friend would have gained at least 10 horsepower by replacing that header.
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 11:35 AM
  #20  
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Since he is talking about me I guess will say that I also had a Fidanza 7lb Flywheel and the guy who was tuning my car said I would be sitting right next to 190fwhp with a flywheel, so the flywheel was added after the tuning. I also had an AEM fuel rail and a FPR set at 5psi more then stock for the cams. And it was a CAI not SRI.

Qtiger, why would I have gained 10 hp with a different header?

Do you mean if I had a 4-1 header?
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