Ok, I know all the bolts, so don't worry about that. I need to remove the rear trailing arm (yellow) to replace the big bushing (green). But I don't know how to disconnect the lines: main brake, ebrake cable, and ABS.



Q1 Do I release the main brake line at point B1? (What do I plug it with?) Or do I release it at the bleeder point B2, or at the bracket B3?



Q2 Where do I release the ebrake cable (purple)?

Q3 Where do I release the ABS sensor (green)?

 

I did this with my old EF for rear crx disc swap, everythings basically the same but no abs. brake line at B1 is easiest. plug it with a plastic golf tee. The ebrake cable if I can remember has a few points not just one, the main one is where it terminates at the caliper. Im thinking A2 for the ABS sensor. You may already know this but you can avoid having to get an alignment if you remove the inner bolt not the outter bolt of the very front of the trailing arm.

 

You can disconnect the e-brake at the handle, or easier at the drum itself.

I am not sure about the ABS sensor.

The arm comes off relatively easy, I had to sdo this for the disc swap on my ej

 

Thanks for the responses.

I noticed the arm that adjusts toe (the small 6" or so arm) connects to both the trailing arm, and a point on the chassis. The point at the chassis has alignement marks for adjusting toe. Are you saying that this is the "inner" bolt?

BTW, either of you have to change the bushing I'm talking about? Or clock it for a different susp height? Mine are freshly ripping (got 100k miles) because I lowered the car slightly (0.75") at around 92k miles. I got Mugen replacements.

 

I have the energy suspension kit sitting in my room, I just haven't gotten up the courage yet

 

Sorry maybe I got it reversed. remove the bolt without the alignment marks.
Alphaxxn may be correct I think its easier to remove the ebrake cable upline toward the brake handle. I cant remember, its been about 5 years since i did this.
I just checked my bushing and its cracking but not severed. Im going to order a Japanese solid rubber bushing replacement but I havent gotten around to it. How much were the Mugen units? Ive read that if your car is dropped you have to rotate (or as you say clock) the bushing before you press it back in so that is not pretorqued when its all buttoned back up and back on the ground. I think the best approach would be to put the car on the ground as it sits now and to get a straitedge and draw a line on the trailing arm that marks a parallel plane of the bushings position. when you jack up the car and remove the trailing arm, the bushings "pin" will probably "clock" itself to where it was originally. This new line you drew on the trailing arm should be the position of your new bushing relative to your ride height.

 

Check you this url, this guy already did what you are going to do...

http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html

 

Thanks, yeah I saw that site during my research which lead me to purchase the Mugen bushing. I'll be doing the straight edge method to find the angle for the bushing.

From what I read, the Mugen bushing is better than the Honda (~$90 a pair) one yet at http://kingmotorsports.com/ it's just $114 a pair!