Originally Posted by chimchim
Thanks for the responses.
I noticed the arm that adjusts toe (the small 6" or so arm) connects to both the trailing arm, and a point on the chassis. The point at the chassis has alignement marks for adjusting toe. Are you saying that this is the "inner" bolt?
BTW, either of you have to change the bushing I'm talking about? Or clock it for a different susp height? Mine are freshly ripping (got 100k miles) because I lowered the car slightly (0.75") at around 92k miles. I got Mugen replacements.
Sorry maybe I got it reversed. remove the bolt without the alignment marks.
Alphaxxn may be correct I think its easier to remove the ebrake cable upline toward the brake handle. I cant remember, its been about 5 years since i did this.
I just checked my bushing and its cracking but not severed. Im going to order a Japanese solid rubber bushing replacement but I havent gotten around to it. How much were the Mugen units? Ive read that if your car is dropped you have to rotate (or as you say clock) the bushing before you press it back in so that is not pretorqued when its all buttoned back up and back on the ground. I think the best approach would be to put the car on the ground as it sits now and to get a straitedge and draw a line on the trailing arm that marks a parallel plane of the bushings position. when you jack up the car and remove the trailing arm, the bushings "pin" will probably "clock" itself to where it was originally. This new line you drew on the trailing arm should be the position of your new bushing relative to your ride height.