go with an aem cold air intake and DC jdm integra type-r replica. you'll need to get a custom cat made tho

 

Talk to me about the custom catback....and..whats wrong with the DC Sports cold air intake? I am close to laying out about a grand on DC Sports "new" products. DC assures me that their Cat Back will bolt right on and go. Same with their header. I thought..., just go with the DC Sports cold air intake as well. Is there a better (and cheaper) set of products out there? AEM wants about $75 more for that intake. Is it worth it? You guys should know! One other item...this old 92 GS-R is a great running car. I can't wait to hear it growl with the new muffler and header installed. I'm planning on keeping the body stock... Alloys, lights, white "frost" paint etc. Your thoughts?

 

he meant that if you get the 4-1 header, you'll need to either replace your catalytic converter, or have a muffler shop weld on an extention to your stock one to make it fit. (geting a new free-flowing catalytic converter will make your exhaust work better)

 

Thanks for the input. The cost of my "new" exhaust just keeps gettin higher! Muffler/Header/Cat will probably exceed a grand!
Yikes! What was that H/P increase again? 10-12?

 

well the muffler shop fix option only costs $20 or so, so if youre worried about the price of a new cat, you could do that and just worry about it later. The beauty of building up a car like this is you can do it a little at a time. You could just get the catback and the intake, for instance, and then a few months later, or a year later or whatever, get the header and the cat.

And its not just the HP to worry about.... actual power increases will be minimal, but throttle response will be greatly improved, as will the bling factor. It'll just make the car more of a pleasure to drive in general.

 

oh, and by the way.... you said your car had *almost* no rust. If you have a few hundred bucks to spare maybe you should make it have NO rust instead of I/H/E. If you let a little rust go, it will turn into a lotta rust in no time--you have to nip it in the bud.

.....speaking from personal experience here.

 

Thanks for your reply. I just bought a product called "Permatex"
Rust destroyer. This stuff APPARENTLY turns existing rust spots
into a black primer type material overnite. I have three small
rust spots on my passenger side door and rear quarter panel. Has anybody used this stuff? Whats up with it? I also have the "Acura" shop coded paint for the car.... unfortunately it has a small brush. Hey..anybody know how I can MATCH the manufacturer touch up paint with a small spray can of the same paint? I hate that brush! Oh, so far I've spent $17 bucks on the rust problem.

 

www.paintscratch.com

Or just have any automotive paint shop mix it for you:

Color Description Color Code
Saxony Blue Metallic Clearcoat B-56M
Captiva Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-62P
Aztec Green Pearl Clearcoat BG-29P
Granada Black Metallic Clearcoat NH-503P
Flint Black Metallic Clearcoat NH-526M
Pewter Gray Metallic Clearcoat NH-537M
Frost White NH-538
Torino Red Pearl Clearcoat R-72P
Milano Red Tricoat/Clearcoat R-81
Horizon Gray Metallic Clearcoat RP-21M
Rosewood Brown Metallic Clearcoat YR-503M
Seattle Silver Metallic Clearcoat Clearcoat YR-94M

 

I used that rust neutralizer stuff. It seemed to work, the rust turned black and I primered over it, but a few months later, the rust came back out through the paint. Now I have to re-do that whole process every couple months to keep the car looking ok.

I'd take it to a professional, just to see what they have to say, if nothing else. If I could do it over again, thats what I'd have done.

 

Good solid advice. But, I like mucking around with the car in the driveway. It beats mowing the lawn. I'll try the "petromex" route at least once. B17A1!