H23aVTEC Build
02-02-2003, 08:39 PM
#11
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I've been doing more reading around the boards and this is what I've come up with.
People that removed the balancer shaft belt have had problems with main bearings and oil pumps. Supposedly the vibration can cause the oil pump gear to shatter over time and the main bearings get pretty beat up too. I'm going to play it safe as this is going to be my daily driver.
About the tensioners. I have read some horror stories about auto tensioners failing and belts falling off causing bent valves. One guy had his break 6 times!! Alot of poeple are convering to H23 manual one. So im going to use that on my setup.
People that removed the balancer shaft belt have had problems with main bearings and oil pumps. Supposedly the vibration can cause the oil pump gear to shatter over time and the main bearings get pretty beat up too. I'm going to play it safe as this is going to be my daily driver.
About the tensioners. I have read some horror stories about auto tensioners failing and belts falling off causing bent valves. One guy had his break 6 times!! Alot of poeple are convering to H23 manual one. So im going to use that on my setup.
02-02-2003, 10:21 PM
#12
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it's because people using the autotensioner dont buy a new one. they reuse the old one and forget to oil it. i have never had a problem with mine.
as for the balancer shafs, i have never heard of a single problem except for the oil pump, but that's why you buy a billet pump gear.
as for the balancer shafs, i have never heard of a single problem except for the oil pump, but that's why you buy a billet pump gear.
02-18-2003, 04:47 PM
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Originally posted by PSPEC
so whats the advantage to the auto tensioner?
so whats the advantage to the auto tensioner?
i just had access to a new autotensioner, so i chose to go that route.
he manual tensioner from an H23 is much easier to work with, especially when it comes to swapping the timing belt.
03-11-2003, 08:51 AM
#15
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ok.. i didnt bother reading the whole thread b/c most of the info in the 1st 1/2 i read was WRONG
you CAN NOT use h22 pistons with h23 crank and pistons. the h22 has a higher compression height and the piston will stick out of the block and hit the head. believe me, i learned this the hard way.
h23 can f22 cranks are the same..... the same CAST piece of **** that WILL break.
the balancer shafts have NOTHING to do with the "balance" of the pistons/rods/crank. they spin at 2X the engine speed to counter the inherent vibrations of a big I4. all they do is make the engine idle smooth for us fat americans, the same reason honda makes motor mounts with big holes and squishy rubber bushing. just take the belt off, removing them all together is too much work for 5 lbs of weight. (edit) PSPEC.... i dont know who you talked to but i had the belt removed from my blancers in my old h22 for 50k miles and when i pulled the engine apart there was NO abnormal wear on any of the berings (edit)
doing a h23 vtec is basicly a waste of your time, they run like **** and dont make anymore power than a h22. and prolonged high rpms break the h23 crank b/c they are cast and not forged like most other honda cranks.
you CAN NOT use h22 pistons with h23 crank and pistons. the h22 has a higher compression height and the piston will stick out of the block and hit the head. believe me, i learned this the hard way.
h23 can f22 cranks are the same..... the same CAST piece of **** that WILL break.
the balancer shafts have NOTHING to do with the "balance" of the pistons/rods/crank. they spin at 2X the engine speed to counter the inherent vibrations of a big I4. all they do is make the engine idle smooth for us fat americans, the same reason honda makes motor mounts with big holes and squishy rubber bushing. just take the belt off, removing them all together is too much work for 5 lbs of weight. (edit) PSPEC.... i dont know who you talked to but i had the belt removed from my blancers in my old h22 for 50k miles and when i pulled the engine apart there was NO abnormal wear on any of the berings (edit)
doing a h23 vtec is basicly a waste of your time, they run like **** and dont make anymore power than a h22. and prolonged high rpms break the h23 crank b/c they are cast and not forged like most other honda cranks.
03-11-2003, 03:15 PM
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Thanks for the info. I decided a long time ago to just go h22 all the way. The motor is already in peices and the block is on the engine stand. Im having/doing some extensive internal work before it goes in.
GEM sleeves
New H22A crank (new for me since mines broken)
Eagle rods
ENDYN 90mm bore pistons
This will make my h22 a 2.3
The stock h22a is actually a 2.15 liter, 90mm pistons will make it a true 2.3 though
GEM sleeves
New H22A crank (new for me since mines broken)
Eagle rods
ENDYN 90mm bore pistons
This will make my h22 a 2.3
The stock h22a is actually a 2.15 liter, 90mm pistons will make it a true 2.3 though