1. Whats a good trim compressor/turbine for a ZC dohc motor? I want to spool fast and hit max @ 6000-6500 RPM's...
2. Is that a good RPM range to shoot for max @? What do you guys think, it will be for a street aplication.
the super 60?.... let me know your oppinions if you have done a turbo aplication on a ZC making over 200 WHP. This is my goal, I got one on the way (ZC that is)....
3. Also I know the Pistons and Rods are only good to about 200 hp @ the fly... What kind do you guys think I should use?
4. hows the crank on these motors? Should I balance it to like 8000 RPMS? can I make power up there with the DOHC ZC?
5. Whats this I hear about "seating" the exuast ports? Is that were you bore out the ports and put a cast iron ring in der for heat reasons? :driving:

 

1. I wouldn't exactly consider a turbo that completely spools at 6500 RPM very quick-spooling. If you're looking into a T3 Super 60(which would suit the ZC pretty nicely), you can expect it to spool considerably earlier than 6500 RPM.

2. If it's a street car, then you want it to spool as quickly as possibly, without running out of steam in the higher RPM range due to thermal efficiency issues. Again, the T3 Super 60 should be more than enough to suit your needs, unless you plan on running considerably higher boost levels. That would, of course, necessitate new sleeves. You should be able to make 200whp with the Super 60 with good tuning.

3. If you're on a budget, you can't really beat Eagle rods and Wiseco pistons. You can get the rods for around $320 and the pistons with rings for about $350. They should be more than adequate to handle the power you plan on making.

4. I don't know how ZC cranks are, but a micropolish couldn't hurt. If you're going to balance the crank, then I assume you'll be balancing the entire reciprocating assembly. I don't know whether or not you'll make power at 8000RPM. You can figure that out when you do your dyno tuning.

5. I'm not exactly sure what you're talking about there.

 

5. Well from what I understand, a N/A motor made of aluminum (like honda motors) doesent take the heat on the exaust ports verry well... All the turbo motors (or most) have cast iron seating inside the exaust ports almost all the way to the valve... This keeps the heat flowing toward the exuast manifold. I believe this is necesary for high boost aplications due to the back presure the turbine creats as the exaust tries to escape past the blades...

2. So how mutch psi you think I can get with the super 60? I am wanting to hit @ least 12PSI.... Possable?
Also what kind of WHP you figure I can get @ 12?

 

Yes, the Super 60 should be able to flow well enough at 12lbs of boost. You should be able to make at least 200whp with 12lbs of boost from the Super 60 with good tuning.

 

Cool man, I realy appreciate the info... Im finally gonna get this ish on the road. I keep you posted on how things are goin. Motor should go in next weekend if everything goes smooth (if the motor gets here in time) I still wanna rip it down and make sure its all legit. But I guess that can wait untill I put in the pistons and rods.

 

1. Hey what does the T super 60 max out @? I know that the heat generated by the turbo will eventualy kill any aditional boost levels past point X... dosent an inetcooler help with this?

2. Can the super 60 make 250 WHP? I might want to upgrade later.... Would it be better to just buy the super 60 as a bigginer turbo then upgrade it later?

3. What kind of cams can I use for a turbo aplication? I know web makes some... You seem to know alot about turbo aplications. So I will go with whatever parts you sugest when I get to the point were I start buying turbo equipment.

4. How much you figure this whole setup will cost me? Im getting the super 60 for $600... So I need to know what els to get for it...

Remember Im on a budget and will have to piece this thing together.... Proly take me 6 months to get it all together... After the swap happends this weekend I have to upgrade my suspension (need camber/caster for my skunkworks suspension) thats gonna set me back about two weeks itself due to bills... Thats why I love honda's thoe! BUDGET RACING! I am even gona do the super cheap style performance upgrade = no interior. Anyway if you find any good parts for the ZC/turbo system cheap PM me or post it here. Thanks again dude.

 

The Super 60 should be more than efficient enough for the amount of boost you'll be able to run on a stock ZC block. If you plan on boosting more than the Super 60 can handle, you'd need to resleeve the block, which costs about $600-700. In addidtion to the turbo, you would need a manifold without an external wastegate port(since the Super 60 is internally gated, unless you want to convert to an external gate), oil feed and return lines, charge piping, and a downpipe. You may also want to run a BOV and intercooler, and depending on the tuning method you decide on, you may or may not need something to fool the MAP sensor(check valves). You'll also have to decide what route you'll be going when it comes to fuel. The total cost of your project will depend on the part you choose to run. Going turbo is never cheap if you want to do it right.

 

Yea, I know.... So the BOV's and wastegates are basicaly the same thing? Only the bov is desighned to blow off more? You think the ZC can take 12 PSI on stock internals? Im not thinking so... Anywho the Super 60 can flow 12 PSI wiout overheating right? Because I'll just get something bigger if it cant handle 12 PSI with ease.

 

BOVs are on the inlet side, WGs are on the exhaust. But yea they do the same thing, relieve excess pressure.

 

BOV's relase boost pressure when the throttle is abruptly closed, so that it doesn't make its way back to the compressor wheel and cause compressor surge. The wastegate opens at a certain boost pressure in order to limit the flow of exhaust gases to the turbine in order to cap the maximum boost pressure at that level. You could run 12lbs of boost on stock internals if you were tuned very well and made sure to NEVER detonate, but you'd be pretty much maxing out the stock internals. If you had forged rods and pistons, you could do so pretty safely, and you might be able to run a slightly more boost, but if you wanted to go higher, you would need new sleeves. The Super 60 should be able to flow fine at 12lbs of boost without thermal major efficiency issues, but if you plan on running more boost in the future, you may want to look into a small-trim T3/T04E.