Isnt 95mm stroke a long stroke? Doesent a shorter stroke make more HP just in the top end thoe?

Bore to 84 MM... Whats that gonna cost me? I can get 11:1 compresion ratio pistons for the D16A6 that are 84 mm from EnDyne.... I would need biger sleaves thoe right? Were could I get those? If I am in any way wrong in any of my presumtions please feel free to corect me... Im a newb and I am often WRONG! Dubb asked me to say that

 

Yes you'd need to resleeve, meaning either downtime for your car while you send it out, or buying a separate block to work on. WHP you can see depends on a lot of things, but it's generally not too high. Just think that most built 2L DOHC Vtecs are under the 250 whp mark.

 

Hmmm. Well I can see at least 225 and streetable with EVERYTHING.... Non FI. I bore out the pistons to 84 shorten the stroke a little Iether make a TB or buy a sick aftermarket one (the one TWM makes for porsche will work on me block according to the email one of thier techies sent me) Make a custom 3" exaust run 11:1 CR pluss an agressive cam, maybe new headers... Port and polish head new lifters/valve springs bore out the valves intake and exaust and port and polish... 225?

 

I think I can make my own inividual runer throtle bodie/manifold...With UR help :squint:.... I need to know what the best length would be, I will be using the manifold off of a D16A6 I will basicaly make 4 runers with a TB built into each one. These would be mig welded onto the flange from the manifold then I would get a 3" pipe and conect the ends to that for my CAI... What do you think?

 

I thought you wanted it to be streetable.

The truth hurts, 225WHP from a N/A D16 is...how do you say...damn near impossible.

With all the stuff you listed I'd be happy to see 150WHP and still be fairly streetable. All that is going to cost mucho...

Or you can take about $1200 and scour the internet for some used turbo parts and make a kit that will put out just as much, still be reliable, still get the gas mileage and take only a few days to install.

Just my $.02 since you asked for opinions.

 

Grrrrrr... GSR looking like the only option here.... Im a tight wad and dont want to spend the money! Pluss I heard there are complications, such as bending the frame and puting a dent in it... Dont like the sound of that.

 

You can get a B-series in without any bending or hammering if you replace the front crossmember.

TWM makes a manifold for DCOE-style carbs, and they also make throttle bodies which are essentially DCOE-style carb replacements. All told, the setup will cost you over two grand.

JG sells bare blocks up to 79mm bore for $650 exchange, or a fully build shortblock for $2295.

Doing up the head will probably cost another $1500 or so with a good port job and cam and such.

So, you're looking at one hella expensive D-series when you can get a B-series for 3 grand tops, spend another grand on installation parts and bolt it all in.

 

1. So the "GRAND" total would be aound $4000?
2. JG will trade the D series for a B series for only $650?
3. What kind of WHP am I lookin at with the B series in an N/A setup?
4. I dont have a ECU for the B series iether, arent those expensive?
5. What is the "crossmember"?

 

ITBs $2300 + block $2300 + head $1500 = $6100

JG will sell you a bare D series block resleeved and bored to 79 mm for $650. Just the block, no other parts.

Typical i/h/e GSR motor puts down 155 whp.

ECUs generally come with swaps.

The crossmember the part of the body/frame the front motor mount bolts to. The stock one doesn't leave a lot of clearance for the B-series headers, aftermarket ones are stronger and thinner.

 

How difficult is it to get in der? the crossmember that is...

Are we talkin $6100 for the D series? Cause Im pretty much sold on the gsr Now all I gotta do is scrape up the loot... Guess its time to quit smoking cigerets....

What does I/H/E stand for?

And how much would this swap cost me? + Smog reff to make it all lagit..