What all is there to do to build the best B20 that I possibly can?

 

Allow me to present to you the cardinal rule of picking out a setup by way of a philosophical argument.

There is no best. There is only that which you seek to achieve.

Translation: figure out what you want the car to do and then figure out what you need to get it to do that.

BTW, I have already said essentially the same thing in the sticky at the top of the forum entitled "READ THIS FIRST: Returning techies, incoming newbies." Now I know you didn't read the sticky.

 

best=most powerful
i'm building it for turbo so that i can boost as high as i can
i read the sticky

 

Okay, you still haven't answered the question. With enough money you could make like 900 hp if you really wanted to. There's not really an upper limit within reason of what you can do.

How fast do you want to go, and how much do you want to spend?

 

forgot to mention just the block
i want to be street legal and eventually run like 12s or quicker

 

Why not just take the LS you have and make an LS/Vtec. Your gonna have to use a tranny other than the CRV's, like your ls tranny. You can have you block resleaved to handle 40-60psi of boost. and you can put Forged pistons, rods etc into your LS block. Get a B16a or b18c and put it on. With a B20 block with a b16 or b18c head you have to have the head redone so that the dish in the head is the same size as the CRV pistons. b20's have an 86mm bore, b16 and b18's have the same bore of 81mm. Also you will run into issues with piston/valve clearences at high rpm if you dont have the pistons cut so that the valves dont hit the piston. To make a long story short, its gonna take more $$ to get a CRVTEC to work than a Ls/vtec would. you already have the block, a b series head is easy to come by and you have to use a Bseries head anyways on a B20 build up to make the most HP seeing how they arent a Vtec motor to start with. Thats the short version of it but do a serach for more info about ls/vtecs and b20 buildups (aka. CR-Vtec's)

 

The stock bore on the B20 is 84mm. Generally the assorted heads that come off 81mm bore motors don't need the chambers deshrouded to work on a B20 block, there's enough tolerance in the machining that the extra 3mm doesn't tend to present a problem. The stock B20 pistons are crap and should be gotten rid of ASAP. Factual details aside, it is still more advantageous to take the LS block you already have and get new sleeves like Golden Eagle or Darton installed and bored to 84mm which will give you identical displacement to a B20.

Practically speaking however, the stock LS block can take plenty of abuse. Beef up the rods and pistons and it'll take enough boost to get you very quick. Only problem with the whole running 12's idea is that it just ain't gonna happen on street tires. When you make enough power to pull that kind of ET, the traction of non-slicks is overcome relatively easily. You'll have a great trap speed but your 60-ft time will suck. If you turn down the boost to get the tires to hook up, you won't break 12's. At the very least you need a set of drag radials.

 

ok so you're saying if i get new sleeves and bored then i will have pretty much the same block as the b20?

yeah i understand about the tires......i would definitley have to buy a set of drags to swap out for the track.

 

Same displacement, with immensely stronger sleeves.

 

cool. thanks man.